When you hear north Goa, what mostly flashes though one’s mind would be the crowded beach stretches of Baga- Calangute, Candolim or Anjuna. Instead, when one heads further north, beyond Chapora river, it leads to the bohemian beaches less frequented by the crowds. The beaches of Arambol, Ashvem and Morjim are known for their lovely sands, serene setting and are a favourite with the discerning travellers who would like to look beyond the crowded beaches of Goa. Once a favourite with hippies and the bohemian crowd, they have slowly caught attention of travellers over the last few years. Located in Pernem taluka, all these beaches are either separated by a creek or a hill. Situated close to each other, there are five prominent beaches here in the northern corner of Goa. Being away from the maddening crowd doesn’t make them any less friendly for a visitor. There are lovely shacks to choose from and many cafes that serve delicious food.
Morjim:
Just across river Chapora lies the small hamlet, Morjim. Morjim
probably has the most serene beach of the lot and is also known for the
endangered olive ridley turtles that come ashore to nest and lay eggs. A walk
early in the morning on the soft white sands is an ideal way to start your day.
There aren’t many activities to explore here other than strolling on the beach
or opting for a dolphin sighting boat ride. Walk till the extreme left of the
beach to see river Chapora disembarking into the Arabian sea. Chapora fort can be
seen atop the hill, across the estuary. Though there are a few cafes by the beach,
most of the accommodations are in the by lanes that lead to the beach.
Ashvem:
Known for its long sandy stretch and rocky outcrops, Ashvem
is a favourite with European travellers. A beautiful creek in the background
accentuates the charm of this beautiful beach known for gorgeous sunsets. The
evening breeze also brings many kite flyers to this long beach. The sea is safe
here and a dip in the waters is well recommended. Ashvem has numerous cafes
along the beach and a wide range of accommodation options by the road that runs
parallel to the beach.
Mandrem:
Mandrem is one of the least explored beaches on this
stretch. Located at the base of a cliff, a walk down through a garden leads to
a wide creek, across which lies the beach. Look down at the marshy patches of
the creek and you can spot numerous colourful crabs. The sea is rough here and
there is high tide frequently, but that doesn’t stop people from having a dip
here. There are only a few cafes here and accommodation options are very
limited. Except for sunbathing, Mandrem doesn’t offer any other activities for
visitors. That also makes it one of the least crowded beaches in Pernem.
Beyond the cliff at Mandrem lies Arambol beach, a favourite
with hippies since the 70’s. It is now the most popular beach on this
stretch in north Goa. Arambol is the corrupted Portuguese name for Harmal, the
local village. Walk north along the beach and that leads to numerous stalls that
sell myriad items. Further ahead lies Paliem beach, a small beach which is a
part of Arambol. This beach is a favourite with foreign backpackers. With stilt
huts, Waghcolomb hill in the backdrop and a nice little freshwater lake, this
definitely seems close to paradise. A climb up the hill offers panoramic vistas
of the sea and Arambol. The long Arambol beach has a number of cafes and shacks
lined up which get quite lively and vibrant as the sun sets with trance music
and showcase a spread of the day’s catch. Our Lady of Mount Carmel church
located on the road that leads to the beach is a popular attraction in Arambol
apart from the beach.
Keri:
Also referred as Querim, Keri is the northern most beach of
Goa and is located at the mouth of Tiracol river. It is secluded, has very few
shacks and that makes it an ideal one for solitude seekers. Lined with casuarinas
in the background, the sand here slopes down into the waters and the tides are
pretty strong too. A swim here is not recommended. To the north of the beach
lies the estuary of Tiracol. Take a ferry and cross the river to visit Tiracol
fort. Though it has been converted into a heritage hotel now, visitors are
allowed to go inside the fort and enjoy the vistas. The fort also houses a lovely church.
Travel Tips:
- Make Morjim or Arambol your base to cover this northern stretch of Goa.
- All the beaches are a short ride away from each other.
- There are cafes on all the beaches.
- As these are not very lively beaches, it is not advised to loiter around too late in the night.
- Hire a two- wheeler to move around these beaches. You hotel/ hostel can arrange for the same. Risky to rely on public transport as they aren’t frequent.
Navigator:
The nearest airport is at Dabolim- 49 Kms from Morjim and 58 Kms from Arambol. The closest major rail head is at Thivim- 19 Kms from Morjim and 29 Kms from Arambol. Arambol and Morjim are the major villages. The frequency of buses connecting between these places is less.
The nearest airport is at Dabolim- 49 Kms from Morjim and 58 Kms from Arambol. The closest major rail head is at Thivim- 19 Kms from Morjim and 29 Kms from Arambol. Arambol and Morjim are the major villages. The frequency of buses connecting between these places is less.
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