Beaches of Vadanappally

A cycle passed by as we stopped the car and gazed at the beautifully aligned coconut trees, while the sound of waves crashing echoed in the background. The well laid out road meandered its way between the beaches and lush greenery on either sides. No crowds, no instagrammers, no hawkers, and we had the secluded beaches and greenery to ourselves.

We were in Vadanappally in Kerala, and there's a line of beaches next to each other which you can visit as you drive along the parallel road, which is lined with coconut trees and houses. While Kerala is home to some of the popular beaches in Varkala and Kovalam, there are many others, like the ones near Vadanappally in Thrissur district, which remains fairly unexplored. They also reminded me of the pretty and secluded beaches of  Kannur.

A deviation at Thalikulam ahead of Thriprayar on NH-66, took me through narrow roads and past typical Kerala houses painted in bright colours to Snehatheeram Beach. This is one of the beautified beaches here with a small park and a couple of shops. There were a few local boys who were enjoying their camaraderie as we walked in. It was a cloudy day, the sun was missing, and I strolled around the sandy beach soaking in the salty air wafting around, while strong waves thrashed onto the shore. We walked further to the right and was greeted by numerous black stones piled up as a bund. Hardly a soul in place, we had the whole beach to ourselves. What a way to start the day, I thought to myself.

The stretch from Snehatheeram to Vadanappally is lined with four beaches, and we drove down through the narrow, but pretty road with swaying coconut trees for constant company. We crossed a small bridge, and stopped by to watch the backwaters joining the sea, which was a pretty sight. While that was a beautiful frame, what left us in awe was the view on the other side of the bridge where the canal with water was adorned with numerous slanting coconut trees forming a spectacular frame. The picturesque place seemed like a perfect picture-postcard, and we gazed at it in oblivion until a few visitors stopped by. The mouth of the canal is along the beach called Thampankadavu, where it disembarks its waters. Munching on some salt water dipped gooseberries we walked up to the beach, which again was devoid of people, but lined with more coconut trees. A peaceful place to watch the waves and spend some time in solitude.

Further ahead we drove to Chilanka Beach, which had a few fishermen unknotting their fishnets and a few dogs loitering around. Without spending much time here, we drove further on the snaking road past a couple of small settlements to Vadanappally Beach. This is one of the longest beaches here, stretching more than half a kilometre. After parking the car, we strolled down the beach, which looked quite hazy in the strong winds that blew. The beach was empty, as far as my eyes could see. Not a soul in the vicinity, we chased the waves, listened to its thrashing sound and relaxed here for a while soaking in the serenity of this place.

The last beach that we wanted to visit was a little away. We had to get back on to the highway, and then take a deviation while maneuvering through narrow muddy roads past paddy fields and backwaters to get to it. Google maps showed a broken bridge with a view near to it, and that is what caught my eye. Anugraha Beach and Ganeshamangalam Beach overlap each other, and the locals call this beach by both the names. We had to stop the car after a while and then walk to the beach. Passed by a large backwater, where we chatted with the locals and saw a couple of them fishing. The road further ended at the beach, which had a few abandoned houses, which were semi-submerged in the sand. Seemed like the sea over the years had swallowed a part of the land and encroached the houses. The headless coconut trees there may have quite a few stories to tell of the encroachment. The waves here were the fiercest and lashed against the stone-bund built by the locals. As the sun set, we walked away from the beach, which again was devoid of any visitors, but this was probably because it was abandoned by its people.

 

How to reach Vadanappally:

The closest airport is at Kochi, 62 km away, and the nearest major railway station is at Thrissur, 20 km away. There are frequent buses from Kochi and Thrissur to get you to Vadanappally. There are no public services between the beaches, and it would be ideal to come in your own vehicle.

Food and Accommodation:

There are a few stalls and a restaurant near Snehatheeram Beach. The other beaches are devoid of any shops except a couple of push carts. There are a few homestays near Snehatheeram and Thampankadavu beaches if you would like to spend a couple of days here.

Evening Frames from Munambam Beach

It was an impromptu visit to Munambam beach, and we were right in time to see the sun recline for the day. Periyar river nonchalantly disgorged itself into the Arabian Sea at Munambam beach, and we strolled on the long walkway that runs parallel to it. Chinese fishing nets dotted the beach, fishermen went about their chores, a few visitors tried a fun banana ride, and the gentle sea breeze blew past me, as I gazed at the horizon in oblivion. The tranquil setting and the evening sky with a tinge of orange hue as the sun went down, offered picturesque frames.

Nestled in the northern tip of the island of Vypeen, Munambam is primarily a fishing harbour, which has gained popularity in the recent times. Away from the beach at Cherai, which is a more popular one on this stretch, Munambam beach is about 33 kms from Ernakulam town (Cochin). 

Beaches of Madh Island

Home to a few quaint fishing villages, Madh island is a nice getaway from the crowds of Mumbai. Located very much within the city limits, this island has a line of secluded beaches. Due to the strong presence of the Naval command, access to Madh fort and a couple of beaches such as Hamla and Marve have been restricted. However, beaches such as Aksa, Dana Pani and Erangal are quite popular. 

View of Global Vipassana Pagoda from Marve jetty

Fresh catches at Marve jetty

Aksa beach

Aksa beach

Stalls at Aksa beach

Dana Pani beach

Rocky outcrops at Dana Pani beach

St. Bonaventure church at Erangal beach is a few centuries old

Erangal beach

Erangal beach

Drying fishes are commonly seen across the island 

Places to Visit and Things to Experience along Malvan coast

Nestled in the southern strip of Maharashtra, Malvan coast is known for its long sandy beaches, glorious sea forts, numerous water sport activities and the delicious Malvani cuisine. The narrow roads of Malvan lined with tall swaying trees, laidback air and small houses on either side portray the perfect picture of a typical coastal town.  Beyond the trees, the powdery sands welcome you to the numerous beaches along this shoreline. While in Malvan, stroll around, take a boat ride, go scuba diving, visit the forts and head back to the aroma of Malvani cuisine wafting from the nearby restaurant. Spread over long stretches, Malvan coast does have quite a few beautiful beaches and prominent forts to explore.

Sindhudurg fort

This mid 17^th century fort seems like a huge ship bobbing in the waters when seen from the Malvan beach. Built on Kurte island by Chatrapati Shivaji Maharaj to counter the attacks from European colonizers and Siddhis of Janjira, Sindhudurg fort is undoubtedly the symbol of the glorious Maratha empire. Spread over 48 acres, the tall fortifications and the strong bastions of this majestic fort houses three temples and is home to 18 families who are believed to be the descendants of the Maratha warriors. A walk around the ramparts of its outer walls offer magnificent views of the blue sea and the waves thrashing onto the walls. Near the entrance of the fort are the imprints of the hands and feet of Shivaji Mharaj preserved in dry lime. There are boats that drop you to Sindhudurg at frequent intervals from Malvan beach and they give you an hour to explore the fort.

Rock garden

Rock garden is probably the most sought after place in Malvan to enjoy the setting sun. This neatly maintained garden offers the evening walkers an ideal place to stroll. However, what brings people here are an array of rocks that extend into the sea beyond the garden. It is an ideal place to catch gorgeous sunsets and enjoy the waters thrashing onto the flat bed of rocks. Perch on top of any protruding rock and watch the sky change colours as the sun goes down.

Chiwla beach

Despite the commercialization, the most popular beach in Malvan has held on to its charm. The long arc shaped beach with coconut trees in the backdrop, a few colourful fishing boats and the azure sea encapsulates its visitors and is well recommended for an early morning stroll.

Kolamb beach

Located a couple of kilometers away from Malvan, Kolamb beach is away from the highlights of Malvan. Apart from the local fishermen, a few bobbing boats and kids playing around, you are highly unlikely to see any visitors. The waves are pretty strong here and there is a sudden slope in the sands as you wade into the waters. The rocky outcrops to the right of the beach offer a beautiful frame against the blue sea.

Sarjekot fort and Talashil beach

Past a few villages and numerous mango orchards, the narrow road leads to the crumbled Sarjekot fort where all that remains are a few stone walls. Totally in ruins, this can hardly be called a fort anymore. However, a walk through the insides of the fort leads to the mouth of Gad river where it joins the Arabian sea. Apart from the Sarjekot jetty and the colourful boats, the fort offers nice views of the serene Talashil beach across the river.

Wayari beach

As you ride down the narrow road that leads to Tarkarli, Wayari beach pops up without a cue.  Also referred as Wayari Bhootnath beach, it isn’t quite a popular one and that keeps it away from the crowds. All that you can spot here are boats shored up, locals strolling around or a game of beach cricket.

Tarkarli

Tarakarli has over the years gained popularity on the tourist map and receives hordes of visitors during holidays and weekends. The beach here was once considered the most serene on the Malvan coast. The beach now is quite commercialized and offers numerous water sport activities for the visitors. Tarkarli is also a popular scuba diving location and is also home to the only marine sanctuary in Maharashtra.

Devbag beach

Further south of Tarkarli, the winding narrow road goes past numerous fishing hamlets and Karli river to Devbag beach. The narrow strip of land ends at this beach known for its heap of white sands and beautiful sunsets. The Karli river joins the sea here and across the river is the secluded Bhogwe beach. Very few visitors head to this beach and that makes it an ideal place for people who love leisurely walks and solitude moments.

Vijaydurg fort

A two hour drive to the north of Malvan takes you to the prominent Vijaydurg fort. Built in the 12^th century during the times of Shilahar dynasty, this impregnable fort was referred as the Eastern Gibralter. The fort was later fortified further by Chatrapati Shivaji who built the tall walls and numerous bastions. The ramparts of the fort offer majestic vistas of Vijaydurg beach, the blue sea and the waves crashing onto the strong walls. The fort houses four fresh water wells, banyan trees, temples and ammunition rooms apart from cannons and cannon balls.

Devgad fort and beach

Devgad is primarily known for its innumerable mango orchards and are lined with shops selling the king the fruits during the months of summer. Also popular is the Devgad fort which presently constitutes of just the outer walls. A climb up the walls offers panoramic views of the sea. The fort also houses a temple and a 20^th century light house. Located en-route the fort is the pristine cove shaped Devgad beach flanked by casuarinas and windmills.

Taramumbari beach

Located near Devgad, Tara Mumbri is a beautiful beach tucked away from the crowds. The rocky beach is known for the presence of phosphorescence which is visible as the sun sets. Numerous windmills can be spotted on the hills in the backdrop. The beach is situated at the mouth of a river with Mithmumbari beach across it.

Kunkeshwar

This coastal town is known for its popular Shiva temple that attracts numerous devotees during the festivities of Shivaratri. The temple with its colourfully painted tower is located by the beach atop a small cliff. Despite being a neat and serene one, the beach doesn’t get many visitors as even the pilgrims don’t seem quite keen on getting into its waters. That definitely makes a big reason to head to this idyllic hamlet.

Beaches of Tondivali, Munge and Talbegad

The stretch between Malvan and Kunkeshwar is home to some of the most serene beaches along this coast. Tondivali beach has a long sandy stretch with casuarinas in its background. All that you might spot here are a few fishing boats on the shore. Munge beach has a beautiful backwater near it which accentuates the charm of the place. Talbegad beach is probably the prettiest of the lot with an endless stretch of sand and swaying trees in the backdrop.

Water Sports

The beach at Malvan offers numerous water sport activities such as parasailing, banana rides, jet ski rides etc. There are numerous operators who conduct these near the Malvan beach. While Tarkarli is popular for its scuba diving locations, Malvan too offers something similar near Sindhudurg fort. Though the operators claim this to be scuba diving, they take you to a depth of only 15 feet and the prices are alarmingly much lesser than what it is at Trakarli, which offers actual scuba diving. However, if you wish to just have a glimpse of the underwater world, the one at Malvan is a good option.

Malvani cuisine

After clambering over forts, strolls on the beaches and water sports, all that you would want is some delicious food to relish. The delectable Malvani cuisine is easily available across the small restaurants in and around the beach and on the roads that lead to it. Thalis are available with various fish combos such as seer fish, king fish, pomfret, butter fish etc. A popular Malvani dish is Kombdi Vade which has Vade (made of rice flour and lentils), chicken curry and solkhadi. Though more of a Konkani dish, Ghavne which is similar to a Neer dosa is a delicious pick for breakfast.

Mangoes of Devgad

While returning from Malvan, take home a box of ripe Alphonso mangoes. Locally known as Hapus, they are widely available across the shops in Devgad and by the road side too. Mangoes are usually available only during the months from March to July.

Location:

Malvan is located in the southern coast of Maharashtra, very close to Goa border. The closest airport is at Dabolim (128 Kms) and the nearest rail head is in Sindhudurg (28 Kms). There are frequent buses from Malvan to other towns such as Sindhudurg, Kudal, Sawantwadi etc.