Jodhpur: Places to Visit in the Blue City

Ashok and I rode through the narrow gully that meandered its way past houses and shrines, which seemed like an endless path, until it came to an abrupt end. Parking our bike, we headed up a staircase to the rooftop of one of the numerous blue structures that cluttered the place. From the rooftop we hopped on to the neighbouring hillock. We were in race to witness the setting sun from the sunset viewpoint with a sea of blue houses in the foreground. Luckily, we were just in the nick of time to see one of the prettiest frames in Jodhpur, and that was a great start to my exploration of the Blue City.

The city get its nickname, ‘Blue City of India’ due to the numerous houses painted with a mix of indigo and limestone, which gives it a sky-blue colour. My local guide, Ashok mentioned that the houses painted in sky blue colour belong to the Brahmin community. It’s probably a way to discern their houses from the rest. Another story reveals that this was done to keep termites away, which had encroached these houses.

However, much before the city got its tagline, Jodhpur was the capital of the Marwar kingdom, which ruled a large part of present day Rajasthan from 13^th century A.D. until early 19^th century A.D. From the Delhi Sultanate to the Marathas to the Mughals, the Rathore Kings of Marwar fought off multiple attacks, sometimes losing out and becoming a vassal, while at other times, winning and getting back the power. The first capital of the Marwar dynasty was Mandore, and later in the mid 15^th century, it was shifted to Jodhpur, by the king, Rao Jodha, after whom the city is named.

While its rich history and stories will leave you captivated, the city has quite a few interesting places to visit, which will take you through some of its bygone glorious days.

Mehrangarh Fort

Standing tall and intimidating over a hillock, Mehrangarh Fort left me gaping at it for long from a distance. This is one of the magnificent forts in Rajasthan known for its spectacular artworks displaying the culture and heritage of Marwar Kingdom. Built in mid 15^th century by Rao Jodha, and renovated by the later rulers of Marwar, there are seven entrance gates that you need to pass through to get to the insides of the fort. The canon ball marks on the fort walls talks about the numerous wars the fort had witnessed. The fort houses numerous galleries that display various items that were once used by the royal family, which includes palanquins, armoury, elephant howdahs, paintings, costumes and turbans. The numerous palaces with innumerable windows, extensive artworks, spectacular glassworks and intricate carvings on its exteriors display magnificent craftsmanship. Some of the palaces here are Sheesh Mahal, Phool Mahal, Jhanki Mahal, Moti Mahal and Zenana Mahal. The views of the fort walls and the city of Jodhpur from these palaces are absolutely captivating.

Jaswant Thada

A short walk away from the fort, Jaswant Thada, a gleaming marble structure is a cenotaph built in memory of Maharaja Jaswant Singh, one of the Rathore Kings, who ruled in the late 19^th century. The magnificent structure is adorned with wonderful carvings, pillars, windows and arches, which are absolutely eye-catchy.

Mandore Gardens

Mandore, which was earlier known as Mandavyapura, was the first capital of the Mawar Kings, until they made Jodhpur their capital later in the 15^th century. Don’t get beguiled by the sprawling lush greenery, pathways and the name of this place. What these gardens house are spectacular cenotaphs built in red sand stone with stunning architecture and intricate carvings. Rising tall among the greenery around, the cenotaphs dedicated to all the major kings of Marwar can be found here. Historical facts take a backseat here, as the cenotaphs, which almost resemble a temple have spellbinding art works on the pillars and the ceilings. Further ahead, atop a hillock in the backdrop, are the ruins of a fort and remnants of the old capital.

Kaylana Lake

A placid lake flanked by hills on either side, Kaylana lake is an ideal break from the innumerable structures, architecture and sculptures, that Jodhpur is known for. While, there isn’t much one can do here, gazing at this landscape after a long day of exploration, will be an ideal way to end your day.

Toorji Ka Jhalra

A stepped well built in the mid 18^th century; Toorji Ka Jhalra was built by the then king, Abhay Singh for his queen, Tanvarji. The well during those days was maintained by women, who also controlled the water management system across this town. There are more than a hundred such step wells across Jodhpur, but the 200-foot deep Toorji Ka Jhalra is the most popular one. Though the carvings on the steps have faded over the years, the well was once adorned with numerous artworks, which included intricate carvings, water spouts and much more.   

Sunset Viewpoint, Pachetiya Hill

An ideal way to end a day in Jodhpur is by enjoying a sunset atop Pachetiya Hill. Narrow gullies that meander its way past the blue houses lead you to the top of this hillock, which also offers a magnificent aerial view of the city of Jodhpur. The setting sun splashing myriad colours across the sky with houses in various shades of blue in the foreground is a spectacular sight. All that you would want to do is gaze in oblivion as the sun slowly goes down the horizon.

Jalandhar Nathji Ka Mandir

This might a tough one to locate as it is tucked away inside a school premises in one of the nondescript lanes of the city, and it remains shut while the school is not functional. Set inside a large courtyard, this temple is adorned with numerous pillars, which are decked with intricate carvings and motifs. The artwork across the base of the platform have partly eroded and dilapidated. 

Masuriya Hill

This hillock has a statue of Durga Das Rathod atop a horse, surrounded by a garden. However, what bring people here are the panoramic views of Jodhpur city and the spectacular sunsets. This is an ideal place to spend a serene evening away from the crowds, and to enjoy a beautiful sunset.

Sadar Bazaar     

Sadar Bazaar might well be a crowded shopping area with numerous shops selling a wide range of things. However, a major point of attraction here is the clock tower that intimidates the surrounding shops, and displays influences of colonial architecture.  

How to reach Jodhpur:

Jodhpur is well connected to other cities in the country by flights and trains. The closest major international airport is in Jaipur, 370 km away.

Food and Accommodation:

Being a popular tourist destination, Jodhpur has a wide range of resorts, hotels and hostels to choose from. I stayed at Hostel Raahi, which is well recommended. The city also has numerous restaurants, which serve authentic Rajasthani cuisine.

 

Mom Love!

 Chittorgarh Fort, Rajasthan. November 2018.

Chittorgarh: The Historical Fort

As you stroll through the stunning Chittorgarh fort, it evokes stories of the spirit, valor, pride and romance of the Rajputs, the warrior clan. Sprawling over 700 acres and intimidating over a hillock by the Berach River in Rajasthan, Chittorgarh fort with a 13 km long circumference is the largest fort in Asia. It is believed to have been initially built in the 7^th century A.D. by the Maurya Kings and was later taken over by the Mewar kingdom for a long period. The fort was ruled for 800 years by various dynasties such as Mauryas, Pratiharas, Solankis, Guhilas and Mewars. It was also witness to three attacks by Alauddin Khalji in the 14^th century, Bahadur Shah and Akbar in the 16^th century. Legend says that while the men died in the battlefields, the women and children committed Jauhar (self immolation) to save themselves from the wrath of the victorious army. However, the Mewar kings managed to fight back every time and regained hold over Chittorgarh fort, which is considered as the 'Pride of Mewar’. The prominent Mewar rulers who ruled this fort were Ratnasimha, Rana Kumbha, Rana Sanga, Maharana Udai Singh II (Founder of Udaipur) and Maharana Pratap. The Mewar dynasty later moved to Udaipur and made it their capital. Kumbalgarh fort, with one of the longest fort walls in the world is the other major fort that was under the Mewar kings.

Chittorgarh fort is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site under the Hill Forts of Rajasthan.

Magnificent structures laced with stunning sculptures and intricate carvings are strewn across the fort, which showcases a blend of Rajput and Islamic style architecture. The formidable fort wall runs all across the hillock with seven entrance gates that you need to pass through to reach the insides of the fort. The fort is also sometimes referred as water fort, as it had about 84 water bodies during its prime, of which very few remain today. Rana Kumbha’s palace which is mostly is ruins, once housed many structures such as underground cellars, elephant and horse stables, royal treasury and shrines a well. It is believed that Rani Padmini committed Jauhar inside this palace. Rani Padmini’s palace with a well laid out garden is the other major palace here, and has a small palace (Jal Mahal) inside a large pond. Fateh Prakash palace is presently a museum which houses various artefacts, weaponry, photographs and other displays of the royal family.

The fort also houses numerous Hindu and Jain temples such as Kumbhashyam temple, Kalikamata Temple, Meerabai temple, Tulja Bhavani temple and Satbis Deori Jain temple.  There are numerous ponds or reservoirs as well with Gaumukh Kund being the most significant one, as it served as the source of water during the fort’s glorious times. There are also cenotaphs, gates, smaller palaces and more dilapidated structures scattered across.

Despite the magnificent palaces and stunning temples, what garners most of the attention inside Chittorgarh fort is undoubtedly the Vijay Stambh or the Tower of Victory built by Rana Kumbh in the 15^th century to commemorate his victory over the Sultan of Malwa. Emblazoned with spectacular carvings of gods and motifs, this is an absolute stunning piece of artwork and unsurprisingly the most celebrated structure here. Narrow steps lead you to the top of this 37 meter high nine-storeyed structure with magnificent views of the fort through the numerous peep holes. Kirti Stambha, another victory post with elaborate carvings was built in the 12^th century, and is dedicated to Adinath, the first Jain Thirthankara.

The fort also has a sound and light show every day from 7:00 P.M. until 8:00 P.M.

Travel Tips:

• Chittorgarh fort is open every day from 9:00 A.M. until 6:00 P.M.
• The entry charges are INR 50 for adults and INR 25 for children.

 

How to reach Chittorgarh Fort:

The closest major city is Udaipur, which has an airport and railway station connecting to other cities in India. It is recommended to take a private taxi from Udaipur to reach Chittorgarh fort, which is about 116 kms away. Public transportation is not frequent between Udaipur and Chittorgarh.

Kumbalgarh Fort: Home to One of the Longest Walls in the World

It wasn’t until I read up about Kumbalgarh fort that I learnt it houses the longest wall in India and the third longest in the world. The fort wall of Kumbalgarh which can be described as Great Wall of India stretches over 36 km across the Aravalli range in Rajasthan. Kumbalgarh fort might not be as extravagant as Chittorgarh fort with impressive structures, but built in the 15^th century by Rana Kumbha, it is one of the prominent forts in Mewar region.  Rising to a height of more than 3600 feet, the fort holds great significance in the history of Mewar rulers as it was considered impregnable for a very long period with many attempts by various rulers turning futile. The fort is also the birth place of Maharana Pratap, one of the most celebrated rulers of Mewar. 

Kumbalgarh fort is presently a UNESCO World Heritage site under Hill Forts of Rajasthan.

Perched on a craggy hillock, Kumbalgarh fort can be spotted from a distance as you head towards it. The long fort wall with intermittent bastions snaking its way till it bends over makes an interesting and intimidating frame. With thick walls, some stretches of which are fifteen feet wide and seven fortified gateways, Kumbalgarh fort is quite an outstanding work of architecture. There are numerous beautiful Jain and Hindu temples spread across the fort and a couple of stepped tanks as well. The aerial views from Kumbha Palace on top are absolutely spectacular with endless views of hills, the meandering fort wall and various structures inside the fort premises.

 

Travel Tips:

1. The fort is open every day from 9:00 AM until 6:00 PM.

2. The entry charges for the fort are INR 10 for Indians and INR 100 for foreigners.

 

How to reach Kumbalgarh Fort:

The closest major city is Udaipur, which has an airport and railway station as well. It is recommended to take a private taxi from Udaipur to reach Kumbalgarh fort, which is 84 km away. Public transportation is not frequent between Udaipur and Kumbalgarh fort.