Cherrapunji- Confluence of Myriad Landscapes

Had it not been for our history textbooks, where Cherrapunji stood glorified as the wettest place on the planet, this little hill town nestled in the Khasi hills of Meghalaya might not have made its presence felt until the modern day travellers explored it. Though the neighbouring Mawsynram has taken over the crown, Cherrapunji for many still rings a bell as the wettest place on earth. There is more to Cherrapunji than the rains. The place is known for its landscape which is strewn with green hills, deep valleys, waterfalls, caves and unending vistas.

It was the last fag of winter and a hazy day, but the sun shone bright as we drove past upper Shillong. Our driver warned that most waterfalls were dry or had very little water. Despite that, with minimal hope, added a few waterfalls to the itinerary. The car made its way meandering through hills, vantage points and open grasslands which had turned a shade less green. We did stop at a couple of view points which offered spellbinding vistas of the Khasi hills. The first major break was at Mawkdok view point, a popular one where most visitors take a break. We walked down a few steps to enjoy the endless views of the green canopy covered hills which turned into different shades of blue the farther they were. The deep valleys lay sandwiched and many a time I wished there was a path that led to its depth.

Mawkdok view point

The car snaked its way past more vantage points, intermittent tiny tea shops and a few dry waterfalls which was disheartening. We did stop by one of such falls for some tea and a break. Wakaba falls despite having very little water looked beautiful with the dry rock patch between the greenery which would have been a breathtaking sight during the monsoon.

View from Wakaba falls

Wakaba falls

The road further led to Cherrapunji locally referred to as Sohra, a little town oblivious of its world popularity. The first point of interest was the ever popular Nohkalikai falls, one of the tallest plunge falls in India. Nohkalikai gets its name from a Khasi lady, Likai, who jumped off the cliff. A wide swathe of rock patch stood clear of the green carpet over the flat hill top while the Nohkalikai flung itself into the turquoise plunge pool 1115 feet below. A few tiny falls on either side of the Nohkalikai were visible as a trickle. The frame turns into a magical one during the rains when numerous falls gush their way through the canopy into the valley. How I wish I was there during the monsoon! Silence, serenity and a warm breeze is all that prevailed over the place as we stared at the gorgeous landscape in oblivion. The only visitors apart from us were a Dutch couple riding their bike all the way from Thailand to Netherlands. Inspirational!

Nohkalikai falls

From vantage points and waterfalls we headed to Mawsmai caves for some spelunking, for which Meghalaya is well known. Some of the longest caves in the world are located here. Unlike Nohkalikai, the caves had its fair share of visitors, including some unruly ones. Located a few kilometers away from Sohra, Krem Mawsmai (Krem in Khasi is cave) is more than 800 meters long and goes down up to 40 feet. Belum was my only previous experience of caves. While Belum had lots of open areas where one could walk around freely, Mawsmai was all about crawling, sneaking and wriggling through stalactites and stalagmites.  Though not pungent, the cave was damp, water droplets fell off the roof at many places and felt a bit claustrophobic making it unbelievably surreal. Though the entrance is dark, light seeps through immediately and from there on it is well lit and has many long passages and large chambers. The million year old stalactites and stalagmites have taken various forms and shapes due to water and rain . While the stalactites look chiseled and still drip water, stalagmites have smooth rounded heads as a result of exploration over years. There are many places where both these have joined to form a column. Natural formations in various shapes (godly figures, human faces, animals) stared at us as we scrambled our way through slippery rocks in search of natural sunlight. A huge hole where sunlight seeped through was where the crawling ended. Transported back from the neolithic age, took in a lung full of fresh air as we walked out.

Tiny stalactits

From caving we were back on the plains of Thakhrang ecological park to enjoy the distant hills and deep valleys. Plains of Bangladesh showed a hazy glimpse of itself from the view point. The park which is a picnic spot is laded with trees, foliage and lawns for kids to play. The next pit stop was Koh Ramhah, a short drive away which offered a better view of the expansive plains of Bangladesh. Koh Ramhah is popular for its impressive monolithic pillar rock. As I gazed at the rock and the distant plains, Bangladesh seemed so near and yet so far. Re-kindled memories of my visit to Mae Sot in Thailand, where Myanmar was just a few steps away.

Thakhrang eco park

Plains of Bangladesh

Koh Ramhah rock

The sun had begun to descend and we drove back the same winding roads through the hills. Seven sister falls, a popular water falls was completely dry and way below a watermark made its way through the lush greenery. This would been a sight to behold after the rains. A quick stop to gulp down a few momos at Mawkdok point, and we drove back to Shillong as the day light faded over the horizon with a sudden drizzle. That was a pleasant surprise. How could a visit to Cherrapunji be devoid of the rains?

The dry seven sister falls

Getting there: Taxis are available from Shillong which is 60 Kms away (1.5 hours drive)

Accommodation and Food: There are guest house/ home stays in Cherrapunji (Sohra) which are not expensive. Hotels/ restaurants are present at Mawkdok, Mawsmai caves.

A Day in Shillong!

Chaang tasted similar to toddy with a light fizz, but hardly gave a high. Cocooned inside a car with dim lights we happily gulped down 3 glasses each of the rice beer (Chaang is a type of rice beer). This was a much better scenario where we could peacefully have a drink. Previous night we were first warned by a passer by and then almost questioned by a local while trying to quickly finish a few glasses of whiskey by the way side. Quite a  risk, I must say. You aren't allowed to drink by the road side in Shillong. Despite the fact that the last peg had to go down the drain, I was impressed by the city and its people. Though a very happening city with clubs, nightlife and a forward outlook towards life, Shillong very much adheres to its rules. It is not without a reason that it has become one of the prominent cities in eastern India.

The drive from Guwahati was an absolute pleasure as the wide winding road meandered its way through the hills of Meghalaya to Shillong. The hills gave way to intermittent vantage points, valleys, distant hills and green canopies. Amid the natural landscape the disturbing aspect was the many hills that were encroached and eaten into. Not sure how many of these would withstand this alarming act by mankind and be there to welcome me on my next trip to Meghalaya. As I pondered over this fact, the expansive Umiam lake showed up with its glistening waters. That was something to bring a cheer. The breathtaking lake and the mist engulfed hills ran along side for a while until we stopped at the view point to take in some fresh mountain air. Numerous islets strewn across the water body in various sizes and shapes creates an encapsulating landscape. It was quite hazy in the late afternoon with the hills and the greenery covered in mist. This sprawling reservoir lies 16 Kms before Shillong and offers boating and water sport facilities.

Umiam Lake

Being in the eastern part of the country, sun descended much earlier and we spend time exploring Police bazaar in the evening. Police Bazaar is the commercial hub and lively place with visitors and tourists frolicking the area. We walked many lanes which are lined up with restaurants, cafes and shops selling a myriad things from wicker baskets to woolen clothes. Jackets and footwear are less expensive and the best buys here. An ideal way to end the day is to explore a few pubs or relish Khasi cuisine at any of the eateries here. However, we did neither of them, left the bazaar as the shops closed and crawled into the blankets soon as the night turned colder.

Police Bazaar

One of the lanes in Police Bazaar

Pickles lined up at a Khasi stall

Next day began with  a walk around Ward's lake and its green meadows. Colourful flowers were peppered all across. Located in the middle of the city, this is undoubtedly the best place for an early morning walk in Shillong. All commercial activities are a short walk away. Meghalaya is predominantly a Christian state and Shillong in particular has numerous gorgeous looking churches. The city was once the capital of this part of British India and the old world charm is still evident all over.

Ward's Lake

Littered with waterfalls, Meghalaya is breathtakingly beautiful during the monsoon when the hills, greenery and falls come alive to make it the abode of clouds. While most waterfalls had turned dry when we visited during the fag end of winter, Elephanta falls, one of the most popular falls did not disappoint us. Located en route Cherrapunjee in Upper Shillong and engulfed in greenery, a sudden drizzle accentuated the beauty of the place. One has to walk down to reach the falls and he third tier is the most beautiful of all. This three tier falls was named Elephanta due to a rock which looked similar to an elephant when first spotted by a Britisher. Though the rock was later washed away during an earthquake,  the falls still is called by the same name. There are numerous shops here selling a cornucopia of artifacts. The drive back to the city was not before we had a hot pipping tea in the rains near the falls.

Elephanta falls- First tier

Third Tier

Missed out on Shillong peak (offers expansive vistas of the city) due to certain restrictions for civilians when I was there, a few waterfalls (Spread eagle falls, Beadon and Bishop falls), Don Bosco museum and State museum. Shillong is also well known for its popular music festivals which are held frequently.

Despite the shortage of time, Shillong did entice and captivate me with whatever little I saw of her. Two days is recommended to explore Shillong at a leisurely pace and the right time to visit would post the rains when the city and its surroundings are at its liveliest best.

Getting there: Take a flight to Guwahati and then a taxi to Shillong. Guwahati is 120 Kms from Shillong. Taxis (Maruti 800) are easily available to commute across the city.

Accommodation and Food: There are a wide range of hotels, restaurants and cafes in Shillong city to choose from. There are numerous places to explore the local cuisine.

Plains of Bangladesh...!!

Plains of Bangladesh as seen from a vantage point in Cherrapunji, Meghalaya. February 2016.