Nestled in the Cauvery belt, Thanjavur was always a
favourite land of the rulers such as Cholas, Nayaks and Marathas since the 9th century. Brimming with
Tamil culture, Thanjavur is known for its dance, art, music, paintings, temples
and literature. Once referred as the granary or rice bowl of the state due to
its rich agricultural prosperity, Thanjavur has slowly over the years turned into another Indian town with all the hustle and bustle. However, despite that,
Thanjavur has refused to part with its love for art which is evident in the
form of dance festivals, paintings and Chola architecture that can be seen even today. All these art and architecture have also been testimony to Thanjavur’s
glorious past which one can notice while strolling through its sculptures, art
galleries and temples.
Brihadeeshwarar temple is synonymous with Thanjavur and is
undoubtedly the biggest attraction in the town. Built in 11th
century by the Chola king Rajaraja Chola I, the temple which is a part of thegreat living chola temples and is a UNESCO world heritage site is a majestic
creation detailing the Chola temple architecture. Located within Shivganga
fort, the temple sprawls over 33,000 sq ft and has two grand entrance towers with
beautiful carvings. The large courtyard houses the main shrine with a shivlinga
and a colossal nandi sculpture facing it. What takes all the attention here is the
massive tower over the main shrine with intricate carvings and an imposing
frame. Atop the tower is a beautifully carved granite block which was rolled up
a ramp by many elephants during those days. The extensive sculptures on the
outer facade of the shrine is a sight to behold. The courtyard is surrounded by
a pathway lined with numerous carved pillars. The premise also houses numerous
other shrines dedicated to Subramanya, Amman, Ganesha, Chandikesvara, Varaha,
Karuvur Devar etc. While visitors throng the temple through the day, the ideal
time to visit is early in the morning or in the evening when the temple gets
bathed in myriad shades that the sun splashes over the gorgeous sculptures.
Built in the 16th century by Vijayanagara empire
and later by the Marathas, the Shivganga fort spreads over 35 acres and has
most of its outer wall in shambles. A moat can still be seen near the entrance
of the temple. The shivganga fort which encircles the Brihadeeshwarar temple
also houses a park for children, a small zoo and shivganga tank which provides boating
facility.
Swartz church next to the shivganga park was built in 1779
CE by a Danish missionary, Christian Swartz. He was quite close to the then
Maratha ruler, King Serfoji II and the church even has marble sculptures of the
King and the missionary on the walls inside. The church has quite a simple
setting with writings and carvings on marble slabs. Rajagopala beerangi, a
canon located near the eastern gate of the fort is believed to be one of the
largest in India. Less than a kilometer from the canon is Ranees tower, a
historical clock tower built in 1883 during the rule of Serfoji II which later
became a war memorial during the First World War.
The Thanjavur Palace complex is a stroll back to the times
when the place was ruled by various dynasties. Built by the Nayaks and later renovated by the Marathas, the vibrant Durbar hall with its
magnificent carvings is the major highlight here. Along with beautiful arches,
the colourful pillars and ceilings accentuate the charm of this hall. Both the
colours and the carvings are quite intricate and have terrific detailing. However,
the art work and scribbles by the modern visitors have taken the sheen off it
to an extent.
Adjoining the durbar hall is a gallery which displays
numerous stone sculptures of various gods and mythological characters, some of
which dates back to the Chola times. Maharaja Serfoji II memorial hall which is
pretty much in a dilapidated state is now a museum and houses collectibles of
the royal family. There is a also a royal museum which has a few displays of the
royal family such as utensils, weaponry, coins etc.
The art gallery with a bell tower adjacent to it has a huge
collection of stone and metal sculptures of gods and various mythological
figures. The 17th century Nayak’s durbar hall is a pretty impressive
one with wall art and a magnificent display of bronze statues. There is also a
gallery that displays exclusive bronze statues of Nataraja (the dancing form of
Shiva). These displays have a great influence of the Chola, Nayak and Maratha
dynasties and
are reminiscent of the glorious past of Thanjavur. Saraswati Mahal is a library
inside the palace complex that houses innumerable texts, manuscripts and
writings on palm leaf which have been carefully preserved over many centuries.
Apart from the music and dance festivals, Thanjavur is known
for its paintings, referred as Tanjore paintings. Made on glass or wooden surfaces, the use of
vibrant colours, gold foils and precious stones makes it unique. The bronze
statues and thalayatti bommai (head nodding dolls) are the other shopping
delights here. The dolls are made of clay or paper and brightly coloured. While
the dolls can be bought from shops outside the palace complex, the paintings
and bronze statues can be checked out at the shops on Gandhiji road or South
Keezha Veedhi.
While the Brihadeeshwara temple garners all the attention,
Thanjavur also has a few other prominent temples such as Bangaru Kamakshi Amman
temple and Punnainallur Mariamman temple. The main shrine at Bangaru Amman
temple is made of pure gold and is believed that it was brought here from Kanchipuram.
Punnainallur Mariamman temple is by the highway and the 18th century
temple is dedicated to Kali, worshipped in the form of an anthill.
13 Kms away from Thanjavur is the town of Thiruvaiyaru, the
birth place of Thyagaraja, the 18th century Carnatic composer and
saint, a revered figure across Tamil Nadu. An annual carnatic music festival,
Thyagaraja Aradhanai is held here every
year during his death anniversary when a host of carnatic singers and composers
perform. The town is located by the Cauvery river and is also known for its Panchanatheeswarar
or Aiyarappanar temple dedicated to Shiva. Colourful towers, broad pathways and
mural art on its walls make this temple an attractive one.
Swamimalai is a detour on the road that connects Thanjavur
with Kumbakonam. The place is popular for the temple dedicated to Muruga which
is located on a rock. A flight of 50 steps leads past small shrines shrouded by
carved pillars and colourful ceilings to the main shrine. The inner sanctum too has wonderful art work
and paintings all across. Swamimalai is also the place where the Thanjavur
bronze statues are manufactured. One could purchase and also see the making of
these statues here.
Thanjavur has more to it than the Brihadeeshwarar temple and
takes you through its glorious past from the 9th century to the 18th
century when it was at its prime under the rule of various dynasties. From
temple architecture to sculptures at galleries and Thalaiyatti bommais,
Thanjavur reeks of art, culture and history.
Navigator:
Thanjavur is 59 Kms from Tiruchirappalli, 190 Kms from
Madurai and 346 Kms from Chennai. The
nearest airport is at Tiruchirappalli. There are frequent trains and buses
connecting Thanjavur with major cities across south India.
Food and Accommodation:
Thanjavur is a fairly big town and there are numerous
restaurants serving various cuisines, South Indian cuisine being the predominant one. The town also has quite a few popular biriyani places such as Thevar’s, Mohal etc. There are
a wide range of hotels in Thanjavur and I stayed at Hotel Valli, which is well
recommended.
