Ladakhi Women

Lamayuru Monastery, Ladakh. September 2017.

Leh- Beyond the Monasteries

When we speak of Leh what conjures up in our minds are lovely snow clad mountains, ancient monasteries and red robed monks.  However, Leh has more to it as it was an important centre on the trade route to Central Asia centuries ago and was the 17^th century capital of the Namgyal empire when it ruled Ladakh. Though people come to Leh to visit the monasteries and understand more about Tibetan Buddhism, the city has over the years developed into a bustling one offering people a blend of both worlds. Beyond the surrounding monastery villages, Leh has ancient palaces, breathtaking landscapes and vibrant markets.

Perched atop a hillock, the 16^th century Leh Palace overlooks the city of Leh. Built by Sengge Namgyal, the nine storeyed palace along the bank of river Indus is modeled on Potala Palace in Lhasa. Made of mud, wood and stone, the palace stands tall with wonderful wood carvings. While most of the rooms remain closed or are in a dilapidated state, the palace still holds a shrine and has a huge gallery of photographs from yesteryears on display. The palace also offers lovely vistas of the city and the distant mountains.

A short drive through the alleys of Leh leads to the beautiful Shanti Stupa atop a vantage point in Chanspa. Built in collaboration with Japanese assistance as a part of the Peace Pagoda mission, the foundation for the stupa was laid by H H Dalai Lama XIV in 1985. The gorgeous white structure is of great religious significance and holds relics of Buddha apart from numerous carvings from Buddhism depicting various characters and stories. The premise also has a couple of Buddhist temples and also offers panoramic views of the Zanskar mountains.

On the road to Thiksey monastery and by the highway, Shey palace looks attractive atop a hillock. Shey palace was one of the earlier homes of the royal family who later shifted to the palace in Leh. Built on similar lines like the Leh palace, the internal rooms of this 16^th century palace are mostly in ruins. However, the palace enshrines a large copper glided statue of Buddha which is known as Dukhang. The interiors of the shrine are adorned with beautiful mural art. The premise also has the largest victory stupa in Ladakh which has its top purely made of gold.

Tucked away from the bustle of Leh, Stok palace has been home to the Ladakhi royal family after the Dogra invasion. The brightly coloured palace is probably the most well maintained one in Leh. The beautiful façade and the open courtyard with lovely views of the surroundings add to the charm of the palace. However, with many private rooms which are still occupied by the royal family, the palace is more of a museum with a large display of royal paraphernalia. Apart from artefacts, utensils, armoury and royal attires, the museum also has a huge collection of photographs of the royal family. The museum is a great insight into the life of the erstwhile royal family of Ladakh.

Located near the airport, Hall of Fame is a museum which has extensive detailing of wars, display of ammunition and various war artefacts. The museum is also dedicated in memory of all the Indian soldiers who lost their life during Indo-Pak wars over the years.  It has a huge war memorial with a parade and a flag ceremony at 6 PM followed by a video screening of snippets from various wars. Hall of Fame also has a section dedicated to Ladakh with information regarding their history, culture, festivals etc.  A couple of kilometers away from Hall of Fame is the mud fort of General Zorawar built a couple of centuries ago.

Situated on the Leh- Kargil road, Pathar Sahib Gurudwara is a 16^th century gurudwara which was built to commemorate the visit of Guru Nanak to Ladakh. The gurudwara gets its name from the fact that there a stone shrine in the shape of the Guru. Visitors can have langar here.

Ladakh is fed by rivers such as Indus, Zanskar and Shyok which meander through the mountains for thousands of kilometers and also form an integral part of the life of Ladakhis. The aerial view of the confluence of Indus and Zanskar near Leh is a beautiful sight. The place also offers adventure activities such as rafting.

The vibrant Leh market is a colourful one with a wide range of things for sale. From junk jewellery to local attires to artefacts to fruits, Leh market has a plethora of titems to keep the shopping buff excited. The place also has a couple of restaurants that serve authentic Ladakhi and Tibetan cuisine. It is well recommended to take a stroll through the market in the evening.

Navigator:

Leh is well connected to other major cities of India by flights. The road to Leh from Manali remains open only from June to October. There are regular buses and shared taxis plying during those months.

Food and Accommodation:

There are numerous restaurants serving Ladakhi, Tibetan and North Indian cuisine in the city. For the local cuisine, Amdo restaurant in Leh market is recommended. There are hostels, guest houses and hotels in Leh city catering to all budgets. I stayed at Hostelavie.

Must try New Year Dishes in South Caucasus

Image source: My Geo Trip

New Year in the South Caucasus is the happiest and brightest holiday. During the festive days the streets are beautifully decorated and the locals are hustling and preparing for the celebration. All the necessary products are usually bought a few days before the 31st of December and hospitable hostesses spend whole days in the kitchen cooking various delicious traditional dishes to meet their guests with dignity. So, this post is about the most delicious and popular festive dishes of Armenia and Georgia – two bright and hospitable countries of the South Caucasus. And if you are lucky to visit these countries during New Year's holidays, make sure you have a list of these must-try dishes.

New Year's dishes in Armenia      

      

For Armenians, New Year is a family holiday. The family gathers at the festive table to try traditional New Year's dishes and celebrate the New Year in the best way.

Before presenting the most delicious New Year's dishes, here is a short historical background about the traditions of celebrating this holiday in Armenia.

Pagan Armenia had its own calendar and celebrated Navasard (New Year). It was celebrated on March 21, the day of the Vernal Equinox. On this day the Armenians celebrated the beginning of spring and asked the gods for a rich harvest. The tradition of celebrating the New Year on January 1 was adopted in Armenia in the XVIII century. Despite the fact that centuries have passed and Armenia has become a Christian country, many traditions of celebrating the New Year have been preserved to this day. This also applies to New Year's dishes.

One of the main dishes of the New Year holiday table is dolma with grape leaves. Delicate grape leaves give the meat a slightly sour taste. Dolma is prepared mainly from beef, sometimes a little pork is added for a more delicate taste. Dolma is served with matsoni and garlic.

Image source: My Geo Trip

Well, if you are a vegetarian, you can try another traditional New Year's dish, pasuts dolma. It is prepared from sauerkraut, and is stuffed with wheat, bulgur, lentils, peas and chickpeas instead of meat. The pasuts dolma is served as a cold snack.

Image source: My Geo Trip

Another traditional dish is ishliqyufta. The cooking process is rather complicated, this is why the dish is prepared only for the holidays. Ishlikyufta is prepared from veal with walnuts and spices. The dish looks like a cutlet and is served with a lemon.

So, these are some of the most common New Year's dishes in Armenia. But, of course, that's not all. The Armenian hospitable table usually bursts with all kinds of snacks, salads, national sweets, local dried fruits and all sorts of nuts.

And if you can’t manage to visit this country during the holidays don’t get upset. In summer and autumn you will be able to enjoy such activities as cycling, trekking and hiking in Armenia.

New Year's dishes in Georgia

The New Year in Georgia is celebrated as cheerfully as in Armenia, and the New Year's table is no less luxurious. Georgia is rich in traditions and the New Year is another occasion to get acquainted more closely with the passionate Georgian people.

So, what is worth trying? The festive table literally breaks under the weight of dishes, all kinds of snacks, sweets and fruits.

The main dish of the New Year's table is a roast piglet. It is a symbol of abundance and prosperity, and the fatter the pig is, the richer and more successful the coming year will be.

Image source: My Geo Trip

Image source: My Geo Trip

The second indispensable traditional dish that you should try during the trip to Georgia is Satsivi. Each region has its own unique recipe for its peparation. The main ingredients are turkey, spices and walnuts. Satsivi is served cold.

Gosinaki is the most popular dessert on the festive table.It is made from walnuts and honey. Today gosinaki can be bought at any time of the year, however, by tradition, it is prepared for the New Year.

Image source: My Geo Trip

These are just a small part of festive dishes that you will find on Armenian and Georgian tables. As soon as you get back home, make sure you hide the scales because you’ll have definitely gained a couple of pounds.

How to Travel in Hyderabad on a Shoestring Budget

Image source: Shutterstock

Buzzing with life, and steeped in history, Hyderabad is the capital city of both Telangana and Andhra Pradesh. The city is a beautiful blend of the old and the new and is famous for its vibrant culture, gorgeous architecture, and delicious food. In addition to all this, it’s also quickly becoming a centre for the technology industry. So it is no wonder that the city welcomes thousands of visitors here every year. Most visitors to the city are business persons and the other percentages are history buffs and families.

Hyderabad’s younger, more technologically advanced side, ‘Cyderabad’ tends to be more grand and a little on the expensive side. But don’t fret, if you’re looking to travel to Hyderabad on a budget, there are a number of things you can do to lighten the load and have a great time. Here are few little hacks to keep in mind when you travel to the City of Nizams.

Work Out Your Budget

Before you can think of booking your hotel or flight tickets, it makes sense to set your budget in advance. Do a little bit of research about Hyderabad and look for most pocket-friendly hotels, restaurants, and modes of transport within the city. This will you give you a fair idea of what your trip will be like. List down the expenses you are most likely to incur from everything from snacks on your journey to extra emergency money. Have the list set, so you know exactly what you need.

Pick Your Hotel

The largest chunk of cash you spend on your vacation would likely go to your hotel accommodation in Hyderabad. This is why it makes sense to find budget hotels that provide a good mix of comfort and great service. In this case, it’s always a good option to settle for well-known budget hotel chains, such as Treebo Hotels. Another important thing to consider is the time you will be travelling in. If you’re travelling during peak season, odds are you’ll have to spend a little more for a room. You will also have to pre book to avoid any fiascos. If you’re travelling during the off season, you’re more likely to get some incredible offers on rooms.

Perfect Plan Your Trip

Image source: Shutterstock

If you’re travelling to Hyderabad for a couple of days and want to get the most of the city in the short time you have, it helps to pre-plan everything to the tee. Prioritize the sites you want to visit. You could start with the city’s most iconic monuments like the Charminar, Golconda Fort, Falaknuma Palace, and the Qutb Shahi Tombs. Then you could add in which other places you would like to visit, dine at and more. One could travel by public transport such as buses in the city to save up more money. If you’re in a bit of a hurry, opt to book a cab online.

Feast on a Budget

Image source: Shutterstock

Considering that the Nizams ruled over the city of Hyderabad for so long, it’s no wonder that the food here is very close to royal. The best part about visiting Hyderabad is you can eat like royals while spending like a poor man. Hyderabadi biryani, kebabs, and haleem for example can be found all around the city at surprisingly low prices. Restaurants like Alpha Hotel, Tibb’s Frankie, Lamakaan, Rice Bowl, NorFest, King and Cardinal Bakery, Gokul Chaat and Cafe 555 serve delicious food at pocket-friendly prices. You can be sure you’ll never miss a meal in this lively city.

Shop Til You Drop

Hyderabad has a good mix of glitzy malls and traditional markets, and if you love shopping you can have your pick of the best. You can head to GVK One Mall, Forum Sujana Mall, Hyderabad Central, InOrbit Mall, the Forum Sujana Mall, Manjeera Mall, and more if you’re looking to buy from some reputed brands, catch a movie or play a few arcade games. If you’re on a budget though, you can always opt for more traditional markets that sell clothing, handicrafts, jewellery, footwear, and more at affordable prices. A few excellent markets to visit are Koti, Begum Bazaar, Tobacco Bazaar, Nampally, Shilparamam, Laad Bazaar, Hyderabad Perfumers, and Moazzam Jahi Market.

Keep Money On Hand

Make sure you carry enough money on your trip, in fact take it one step forward and carry emergency cash with you. You never know if the neighbourhood you choose will have an ATM, so keep money on hand. It’s also important to keep your cash safe. You could stash your money away in a secret pocket, or stuff in your shoes for safe keeping. You can also keep alternative methods of payment on hand. Debit cards, credit cards, or online wallets will do the trick.

Stick to the Budget

While on a vacation, it can be tempting to spend a lot of money on things you don’t really need. It may be too much food that you spend on or an expensive souvenir, whatever it is think of the price attached to it. You can always set aside money to shop but make sure you stick to that.

Travelling on a budget may seem like a gloomy business, but if planned right it can be loads of fun, while making you more responsible and happy. So take your time, the adventure of lifetime is around the next corner.

Turtuk- The Baltistan of India

“Can you see the flags and bunkers atop the mountain?”, Hussain Baig quizzed behind my head as I zoomed further through the binoculars. I spotted them after a while and responded to Mr. Baig with a smile. “Half of the mountain belongs to India and the other half to Pakistan”, he said after a while as I gazed at the mountains. We were at the view point in Turtuk, a tiny village to the north of Nubra valley in Ladakh. Located just 7 Kms away from Line of Control, Turtuk was a part of Baltistan region in Pakistan until 1971 Indo- Pak war. Post that, the village along with a couple of nearby ones came under the control of India.

The sky looked gloomy and there was a light drizzle as I crossed Thoise, the military air force base enroute Turtuk.  The road meandered along the Shyok river and through myriad mountains all the way till Changmar where I showed my permits to ride further to Turtuk. Bogdang was where I had the first glimpse of Baltistan as the landscape turned greener, Islamic influence was evident and people looked more Persian and less Tibetan. Crossing over a couple of streams and tall trees swaying in the wind I was soon at Turtuk.

Surrounded by greenery and with gurgling streams Turtuk was a stark difference from other parts of Ladakh. Turtuk is made of two major villages, Farool and Youl, separated by a bridge. I crossed the bridge and walked over to Farool. The narrow alleys lined with stone houses led to open lands where women worked in the fields. Kids waved as I strolled around the village which had numerous vegetable farm lands with mountains in the backdrop. I met Mr. Hussain Baig while walking around and he was excited to take me to the view point. Though not a tourist guide, he is quite keen on interacting with visitors, is happy to talk about Turtuk’s history and the village’s love and regard for Indian army. From the view point he helped me spot bunkers and Indian flag atop a mountain which acts as a border line between India and Pakistan.

The village was earlier known as Duktuk and became Turtuk after it was invaded by two Turkish brothers. People here first followed Banchos and later accepted Buddhism. Turtuk is entirely a Muslim village at present and Islam spread in this region about 700 years ago. The villagers follow Balti culture, consume only organic food and don’t believe in slaughtering. Farool has many important sites such as freezing point, polo ground, few mosques, a monastery and a waterfall.

Strolled around for a while more and then I headed to Friendship café for authentic Balti cuisine for lunch.  I had Kisir with Moskot which was similar to Dosa with chutney, and washed it down with Kahwa. Farool in Balti language refers to ‘outside place’ and the village was earlier considered by people of Youl village as a land outside their village. Youl is older than Farool and is known for its historic 16^th century mosque. I crossed over the bridge and walked through the narrow lanes of Youl which seemed a bit different from Farool. Youl does not have open lands like Farool and was more of narrow alleys with stone structures one either side. The 16^th century mosque is popular as it has symbols from various religions carved on its interiors. Apart from the mosque, the village also has a small museum and a library.

Not quite impressive as Farool, I walked out of Youl soon and rode out of Turtuk. Turtuk needs to be visited to experience the drastic change in culture, weather and landscape from other parts of Ladakh. Being so close to the Line of Control is definitely another added attraction.

Navigator:

Turtuk is 90 Kms from Diskit and 204 Kms from Leh. The closest major bus station is at Diskit and the nearest airport is at Leh. It is recommended to travel in own vehicle to Turtuk or take shared taxi from Diskit.

Food and Accommodation:

There are a few cafes in Farool but most of them shut down during off season (November to April). There are guest houses in Farool. However, one can also visit Turtuk for a day from Diskit or Hunder.