Popular Temples in Kanchipuram

Once referred as the town with a thousand temples, Kanchipuram hasn’t changed much over the years despite the number of temples drastically coming down. You are still likely to spot at least one temple or a shrine on every road and alley of this temple city. The sculptures and carvings in the temples which showcases Pallava, Chola, Nayak and Vijayanagara architecture have eroded over the years due to natural calamities and invasions. Prominent during the historical times as a place of learning, Kanchipuram is also one of the seven sacred cities to attain salvation as per Vaishnavism (A type of Hinduism which follows Vishnu). The place is also a revered place for Shaivaites (Followers of Shiva). While there are numerous temples across the town of Kanchipuram, here are a few of the prominent ones which you must visit in this holy land.

Vaikunta Perumal Temple:

Dedicated to Vishnu, Vaikunta Perumal temple is more than 1200 years old and is also known as Thiru Parameswara Vinnagaram. Built by Nandivarman II of the Pallava dynasty in the AD 8^th century, the temple has undergone moderate changes in its architecture during the rule of later dynasties. Vishnu is worshiped as Vaikuntanathan here and the main shrine is a three storeyed structure with Vishnu in standing, sitting and reclining postures. The passage around the main shrine is lined with carved pillars and magnificent sculptures on the wall panels. This is one of the oldest temples in Kanchipuram.

Kailasanathar Temple:

This is the most prominent and the oldest temple in Kanchipuram built by Narasimhavarman II of the Pallava dynasty in AD 8^th century. Built in Dravidian architecture, Kailasanathar temple has extensive carvings and sculptures of various mythological characters on the outer wall of the main shrine and along the circumambulatory path. The inner sanctum has a large shivlinga along with carvings on its walls. Apart from the main shrine, the temple has 58 small shrines here dedicated to Shiva. The whole temple is built out of sandstone except for the foundation, which is made of granite. Despite the elaborate carvings, the temple doesn’t look ostentatious and is tucked away from the busy alleyways of Kanchipuram.

Kanchi Kamakshi Ambal Temple:

Though this temple was first built in AD 11^th century during the Pallava reign, most of the present structures were rebuilt later in the 17^th century during the rule of Vijayanagar empire.  The main shrine which has a golden topping is dedicated to Kamakshi Amman who can be seen in a seated yogic posture. The temple premise also has a pond which is known as Pancha Gangai and Vasanatha Mandapam which is a raised hall with numerous carved pillars. Kanchi Kamakshi Ambal temple is one of the Shakti Peetams in the country and is among the most revered temples dedicated to Amman (Goddess) in Tamil Nadu.

Ekambareswarar Temple:

Also known as Ekambaranath temple, it was built in the 9^th century by Chola dynasty and is one of the most popular temples in Kanchipuram.  Here, Shiva is worshipped in the form of earth (one of the five elements- Pancha Bhootas) and the main shrine has a large Shiva lingam. Vishnu too is worshiped here as Nilathingal Thundam and there are numerous other shrines too. Spread over 40 acres, the temple has an 11 storeyed magnificent Rajagopuram (entrance gate) with impressive carvings and a large temple pond. The temple has long corridors with pillars that are extensively carved. The temple complex also houses numerous halls, the most prominent being a thousand pillar hall, most of which were built during the Vijayanagara rule. A mango tree inside the temple is believed to be where Shiva and Kamakshi got married, and is apparently more than 3000 years old.

Varadaraja Perumal Temple:

This mid 11^th century temple was first built by the Cholas and then later many additions were made by the Vijayanagara kings. Dedicated to Vishnu, the temple has two large Rajagopurams (entrance gates) with carvings and is built within a small hillock. The temple has three precincts with 32 shrines and numerous pillared halls. Varadaraja Perumal temple has extensive works and is adorned with carvings, sculptures, carved pillars and mural art. The temple pond is within the premise and is known as Aanantha Theertham.

Within the temple complex is a large mandapam (raised hall) with innumerable sculpted pillars. The pillars have been exquisitely carved with yalis, mythological creatures, scenes from war and various other stories from the bygone era. This hall is on the left as soon as you enter through the rajagopuram.

If there is anything that garners more popularity than the temples in Kanchipuram, it has to be Kanchivaram silk sarees which are synonymous with the town. Apart from shopping, one would also get to see the weaving of these colourful Kancheevaram sarees at a few of the stores. Typically it takes anywhere between 20 to 30 days to weave a Kanchipuram silk saree.  Gandhi road is an ideal place to buy these sarees.

Travel Tips:

• There are areas within every temple premise where photography is restricted. Do check prior to clicking.

• All the temples are open from sunrise to 12 noon and then from 4 PM to 8 PM.

Navigator:

Kanchipuram is located 74 Kms from Chennai. The closest airport is at Chennai (63 Kms). There are regular buses and trains that connect Kanchipuram with Chennai, Madurai, Trichy etc.

Food and Accommodation:

Being a temple town, most of the restaurants serve vegetarian fare. Enjoy some delicious dosas, idlis and filter coffee. Kanchipuram has a wide range of hotels catering to the requirements of visitors.

Nelliyampathy: A Gem in the Western Ghats

“Do you know who’s come to visit us early in the morning?” asked my Dad and I jumped out of the bed to open the door. It was a sambar deer cosily curled up just outside our room. It was deep asleep as the woods were waking up to the morning mist and drizzle. We couldn’t have expected a bigger surprise than this visitor at our door step at Greenland farm houses in Nelliyampathy.

Tucked away from the plains of Palakkad, Nelliyampathy is a lovely little hill station nestled in the Western Ghats at a height of more than 4500 feet above sea level. This gem of a place gets its name from the gooseberry trees that were predominant here long back. Laced with tea, coffee and orange plantations, Nelliyampathy is an absolute delight during the monsoon when it showcases various shades of green apart from numerous small waterfalls.

A detour from Vadakkancherry, and we were snaking our way past the road side shops and the town of Nenmara to Pothundy, the tiny hamlet at the base of Nelliyampathy. Pothundy dam and a well maintained garden is the highlight here. Built in the 19^th century, the dam is fed by the tributaries of Bharathapuzha and is the source of irrigation for agricultural regions of Palakkad apart from providing drinking water to the surrounding areas. A steep flight of steps past the garden led us to the panoramic views of the reservoir. Placid waters of the reservoir are engulfed by green hills and despite the blazing sun, the breeze blew cold. Strolled around for a while taking in the gorgeous vistas and then walked down to go up the hills.

Past the check post which showed up immediately after the dam, the road serpentined its way past fallen trees, mudslides, numerous tiny waterfalls and vantage points. Shrouding mist and incessant drizzle further accentuated the charm of the drive all the way.  Nenmara waterfalls is a fairly large one which you would spot on the way. Splashing and tumbling over rocks, the water gushed through the thick forest green. The large moss laden boulders which offered a better view looked a bit slippery and I watched the falls from a distance. Pothundy reservoir popped up frequently amidst the lush greenery as we drove up. The vantage points offered magnificent views of the mist engulfed hills and the green valley below.

As we neared Kaikatty, a small village before Neeliyampathy, vast tea estates on low lying hills showed up. Coffee plantations too are prominent in this area. A couple of kilometers along the winding road and we were at Nelliyampathy, no bigger than Kaikatty with a few shops, small eateries and a couple of hotels.  Greenland farm house, where we were to stay is further 7 kms from Nelliyampathy near Palagapandi. A quick lunch later, we headed out to explore this lovely hill station.

Seetharkundu, a view point near Palagapandi is one of the major attractions in Nelliyampathy. It is a short walk past a tea estate that leads to this lovely vantage point. The path led us to an opening and without a cue, gorgeous views of the plains of Kollengode town and the surrounding regions lay before us. Endless stretch of forest canopy and paddy fields in multiple shades of green offer a picturesque frame from this point. Kollengode hill looms tall on one side apart from the endless vistas. We walked along the ridge of the hills taking in the gorgeous frame. The jutting lone trees are a favourite with photographers.  It is believed that the place gets its name from the fact that Seetha rested here while on exile as mentioned in Ramayana.

It was almost dark when we reached back our room. At sharp 7 pm, the jeep that was to take us on a night safari honked outside the room. It was raining and though we contemplated about the safari, we were soon on our way past the estate boundaries into the fringes of the forest. The incessant rains had made the mud road slushy and the streams that cut across the road had swelled up too. We were apprehensive throughout the safari as it was an adventurous and slippery ride on a slushy narrow dirt track.  Our cool driver cum guide was quite an expert in such situations and he carefully manoeuvred the vehicle through the forest. The ditches seemed like half dug trenches and each time the jeep’s tyre dipped, we had our hearts in our mouths. In between all the adventure, we sighted two sambar deer and a couple of spotted deer by the road which ran into the darkness when the headlights flashed. It seemed like we had hit the end of the road when the jeep stopped at the base of a large rocky hill. While I was thinking about the return, the jeep surged ahead at 45 degrees onto the top of the hill. More fun to follow as we rode up and stopped atop the flat headed hill. Kollengode village looked gorgeous in that pitch darkness and rain. Our driver mentioned that the hill was known as Cheriya Mampara and is an ideal place for photography if not raining. We headed back on the same mud track and were back at the farm house before the stipulated time of one hour as my parents found the ride a bit too adventurous.  It was a delight to wake up next morning and find a sambar deer sleeping outside our door. Apparently, Greenland farm house is located next to the forest reserve and there are two sambar deer who frequently visit their premises.

A delicious breakfast later we headed to Keshavanpara, another view point which is a detour from Kaikatty junction. From the main road, it’s a nice little stroll through lush greenery on a narrow pathway to Keshavanpara. A large rocky hill stood at the end of the trail. Climbed up and the views were stunning with a panoramic view of Pothundy dam, green valley and intimidating hills. Mist intermittently engulfed the place and the sky turned dramatic as we returned shortly. There is also a small pond atop the hill apart from an old dilapidated water storage tank.

Further ahead of Keshavanpara, the road snaked its way past large tea plantations and turned narrower as we headed to Karappara. There were forest patches too and a large stream ran parallel to the road for a long period. There is hardly any civilization beyond Keshavanpara except for the plantations workers and a couple of small junctions. We ended the drive 12 Kms later at Karappara where the only commercial establishment was a lone tea shop.  A hot tea in the rains and we walked to the hanging bridge nearby. A long bridge which connected to the forests on the other end hung over the gushing waters. I was told that access into the forest is restricted and only the tribes residing there are allowed to go further. Less than a kilometer away from the tea shop is a popular waterfall. Cascading and splashing over rocks, the water flows deep into the forest and joins the large stream that we spotted on the way to Karappara. Though a pretty one during monsoons, the falls isn’t a large one like Karappara waterfalls which is a few kilometers further from this one. The roads were in a bad state and that made us skip the larger falls in Karappara. The long drive back from Nelliyampathy was a hazy one with misty roads and heavy rains.

Nelliyampathy is a gorgeous hill station both during the monsoons and post that. The place is also known for its wildlife and fauna such as Malabar hornbill, owls, Malabar giant squirrel and elephants which can be commonly spotted. The myriad shades of green that this little hill station throws up are spectacular. Laced with plantations, waterfalls and vantage points, Nelliyampathy is absolutely a nature lover’s delight.

Travel Tips:

• While returning from Nelliyampathy make sure to cross the check post near Pothundy by 4 PM, as it  closes after that.
• There are very few eateries in Nelliyampathy.
• Only BSNL network works here apart from Airtel at a few locations.
• There is only one ATM near Kaikatty junction. There is also an SBI cash counter near this. Most places accept only cash. Do withdraw cash from Nenmara or Vadakkancherry beforehand.

Navigator:

Nelliyampathy is 43 Kms from Vadakkencherry, 57 Kms from Palakkad and 142 Kms from Cochin. The closest airport is at Cochin (110 Kms) and the closest railhead is at Palakkad. There are buses plying between Palakkad and Nelliyampathy via Vadakkancherry every day.

Food and Accommodation:

There are small eateries at Kaikatty and Nelliyampathy. However, it is recommended to head to any of the resorts or hotels such as Greenland farm houses, Whistling Thrush Bungalow, Blue Mount residency, Orange Valley hotel, ITL Holiday resorts etc. to satiate your hunger. I stayed at Greenland Farm houses and the place has an excellent restaurant apart from a wonderful outdoor area. The cottage I stayed was mediocre and the price for the same starts from INR 1500+ tax. They own a lovely farm nearby where you can find emus, sheep, pigeons, turkeys, rabbits, hens and a few other animals.

Mangalam Dam, Palakkad

Built over Cherukkunnath river in Palakkad district of Kerala, the sprawling Mangalam dam was completed in the year 1956. Shrouded by verdant hills, walkways and gardens, the dam's reservoir is an ideal spot to stroll around and take in the spellbinding vistas.  The springs and streams from the hills fill up the reservoir once the monsoon sets in. The rains make the place a picturesque one with mist, lush greenery and blooming flowers. Located close to Chimmini wildlife sanctuary the surrounding area of Mangalam dam is also known for its rich avian fauna.

Location:

Mangalam Dam is 45 Kms from Palakkad city and the closest town is Vadakkencherry (15kms). There is public transportation available to the dam from Vadakkencherry.

Blossom!

The well laid out road to Ootacamund is lined with colourful trees all along the forests and ghats. February 2018.

Kodaikanal Lake

The sprawling lake looked gloomy due to a short drizzle late in the evening. April 2018.

Manjalar Dam

Aerial view from the ghat road that leads to Kodaikanal. April 2018.