Hoysala Temple Trail- Belur, Halebidu and more

Hoysala was a prominent South Indian empire which ruled most part of present day Karnataka from the 10^th to 14^th century. Belur and Halebidu were their capital during those years. Hoysalas played a huge role in temple architecture and are known for their numerous temples built around the towns of Hassan, Belur and Halebidu. The architecture is referred to as Hoyasala architecture and the major features include extensive sculptures and carvings of various mythological characters, ornate pillars, raised platform and star shaped towers. Hoysala emblem shows a soldier fighting a tiger and can be seen atop most of the temples. The major temples include Chennakeshava temple at Belur, Hoysaleshwara temple at Halebidu and Chennakeshava temple at Somnathpura.

Chennakeshava temple, Belur

Chennakeshava temple in Belur dedicated to Vishnu is the most celebrated of all Hoysala temples and a masterpiece in Indian architecture. Belur or Velapuri as it was earlier known was the first capital of Hoysala empire and the temple here was built in early 12^th century by King Vishnuvardhana to commemorate his victory over the Cholas of Talakad. Built in typical Hoysala architecture, the star shaped temple sits on a raised platform, has innumerable carvings and sculptures, lathed pillars and a few other temples within the large courtyard apart from a pushkarni (pond) and a dance hall. Built of black soapstone, it has a flat roof and is devoid of gopurams (towers). The carvings, motifs and friezes are extensive, intricate and breathtakingly beautiful. The sculptures of various mythological characters, deities, figurines, dancing ladies, door keepers and animals adorn the exterior walls and the interiors of the temple. The entrance to the inner sanctum has beautiful carvings of incarnations of Vishnu chiseled above the door.  The sanctum has numerous ornate pillars and the ceiling displays astounding art work. Mohini pillar, Narasimha pillar, sculptures of Darpanasundari (Lady with mirror) and Garuda are exquisite specimens of intricate stone work. Chennakeshava temple is undoubtedly one of the finest pieces of craftsmanship in India and holds a distinct name amongst the architectural creations in the country. The carvings and sculptures are so stunning that one could gaze at them for a long period in oblivion as the stories in stone slowly unfold. The other temples within the complex are Kappe Chennigaraya, Saumyanayaki, Veera Narayana and Ranganayaki of which Kappe Chennigaraya and Saumyanayaki have beautiful carvings and ornate pillars. The premise also has a wide display of unearthed sculptures lined up on one side.

Chennakeshava temple is 39 Kms from Hassan

Hoysaleshwara temple, Halebidu

Earlier known as Dwarasamudra, Halebidu was the second capital of the Hoysalas for more than 200 years. Hoysaleshwara temple here is undoubtedly the most popular temple built by Hoysalas and has the most elaborate carvings and sculptures across all Hoysala temples.  One of the finest examples of Hoysala architecture, Hoysaleshwara temple is the labour of marvelous craftsmanship. The temple was built in the 12^th century by Ketamala for the Hoysala King Vishnuvardhana and his wife, Queen Shantala. Apart from the mythological characters, deities, figurines and animals carved on its exterior walls, the temple also has numerous carvings, friezes and motifs in the form of stories and war like scenes at its base which are breathtakingly beautiful. One can also spot numerous designs and patterns all across the shrine which forms a part of the architecture.  The temple rests on a star shaped platform and has two shrines inside, dedicated to Pataleshwara and Shantaleshwara, both forms of Shiva. The shrines are connected by a long passage. The insides of the shrines are adorned with numerous lathed pillars, intricate carving and sculptures on the ceiling. The inner sanctum too has extensive sculptures on its door.  Outside, two large sculptures of Nandi (bull) inside mantapas (halls) face the shrines. As you walk around this large temple, the exquisite and extensive carvings with magnificent detailing unfold depicting numerous mythological stories carved in stone. The premise also has an archaeological museum which displays numerous sculptures.

Hoysaleshwara temple is 30 Kms from Hassan

Kedareshwara temple, Halebidu

A short distance away from Hoysaleshwara lies Kedareshwara temple built in early 13^th century by King Veera Ballala II. It is built on similar lines as Hoysaleshwara and has numerous sculptures and carvings depicting various mythological characters, deities and animals on its exterior walls. The rich friezes, ornate pillars and carved ceiling are the other major attractions of this temple.

Kedareshwara temple is 31 Kms from Hassan

Basadihalli, Halebidu

To the south of Hoysaleshwara temple lies Basadihalli, which houses three Jain temples, Parshwanatha, Shantinatha and Adinatha, all of which were built during the 12^th century. Parshwanatha temple is the most attractive of all the three, with numerous ornate pillars, extensively carved ceiling and an 18 feet tall Parshwanatha idol. Santinatha temple has fewer carvings but has numerous pillars apart from the 18 feet tall Santinatha idol. Adinatha is a smaller shrine between the other two with a small idol and carved pillars.

Basadihalli is 31 Kms from Hassan

Kalyani at Hulikere 

  

Surrounded by houses and a short distance away from Halebidu lies the Kalyani at Hulikere. The beautifully designed tank has numerous steps along with twelve small sanctums. The sanctums have nice carvings etched on them.

Hulikere is 36 Kms from Hassan

Chennakeshava temple, Somnathpura

In the nondescript village of Somnathpura lies one of the magnificent Hoysala temples. Built in the 13^th century by Somnath, one of the commanders of Hoysala kingdom, Chennakeshava temple is one of the best examples of Hoysala architecture. Built on a raised platform, there are three shrines dedicated to Keshava, Venugopala and Janardhana- all are forms of Vishnu. The outer walls are decorated with intricate carvings and detailed sculptures of various mythological charactyers, door keepers, dancers and scenes from mythology. The inner sanctum has lathed pillars and beautiful sculptures of deities.

Chennakeshava temple is 138 Kms from Hassan

Veeranarayana temple, Belavadi

Belavadi is believed to be where Bheema killed Bakasura in the epic, Mahabharata. Built in the 12^th century by King Veera Ballala II, the gorgeous Veeranarayana temple in Belavadi is dedicated to Vishnu and is one of the most stunning of all the temples built by Hoysala empire. The entrance foyer is quite an impressive one and is almost as large as a few of the smaller Hoysala temples. Located amidst a beautiful garden, the spread out temple has three shrines and towers with exquisite carvings and sculptures all over. The elephant sculptures near the entrance are absolutely gorgeous stone works. The shrines are connected by halls and passages, and two of them face each other, which makes it unique. While the first passage is an enclosed one, the second is semi open and hence has more natural lighting. The stand out feature at Veeranarayana temple is its beautiful shining ornate pillars which are lined up across the halls and passages.  There are numerous pillars here and the seating areas along the periphery are an ideal place to enjoy the serene setting. The door of the inner sanctums and the ceiling has nice carvings. Except for a raised platform, the temple exhibits all the major features of Hoysala architecture. Though the exterior walls, towers and roofs have extensive sculptures, some portions of the lower part of the shrines has been left blank, which hints that the construction was unfinished.

Veeranarayana temple is 41 Kms from Hassan

Twin temples of Mosale

The narrow winding road goes past open fields, coconut groves and a hamlet before it ends at the twin temples in Mosale. The Nagaeshwara and Chennakeshava temples dedicated to Shiva (left side) and Vishnu (right side) have lathed pillars along with carvings and sculptures on their exteriors, most of which have been either chipped or disfigured over a period of time. However, the sculptures on the gopurams (towers) look beautiful. Nageshwara temple is believed to be more than 850 years old. Both the shrines have a similar design and are built on a raised platform. Both Shiva and Vishnu in one complex is quite rare and that makes these twin Hoysala temples a unique one.

Mosale is 12 Kms from Hassan

Brahmeshwara temple, Kikkeri

Located in a by lane, the beautiful Brahmeshwara temple in Kikkeri faces an expansive lake. Built in late 12^th century by an effluent lady, Bommare Nyakiti, the temple has typical Hoyasala architecture with lovely sculptures all over its exterior. It has life size sculptures near entrance door and a huge nandi in the porch entrance facing the shrine.  The temple functions only in the morning and evening, and remains shut during noon.

Brahmeshwara temple is 55 Kms from Hassan

Lakshminarayana temple, Hosaholalu

Dedicated to Vishnu, the temple was built by King Veera Someshwara in mid 13^th century. Surrounded by a line of colourful houses, the entrance structure is fairly a new one and can be deceptive if you are looking for Hoysala sculptures. However, as you circumambulate, the temple slowly opens up with its gorgeous carvings and sculptures. Built in typical Hoysala architecture, it has three shrines in its inner sanctum with only the central shrine having a tower. The external carvings are elaborate and depict many mythological stories.

Lakshminarayana temple is 72 Kms from Hassan

Chennakeshava temple, Anekere

Located near Channarayapatna, Chennakeshava temple in Anekere was built in early 12^th century. Carvings and sculptures are minimal and the exteriors are devoid of the chisel work, which is a prominent feature of most Hoysala temples. However, it has exquisite carvings on its ceiling and beautiful lathed pillars apart from a nice courtyard. The temple functions only in the morning, but keys to the temple remains with the priest who lives next door.

Chennakeshava temple is 39 Kms from Hassan

Temples of Nuggehalli

The serene Nuggehalli village is known for its Sadashiva temple and Lakshminarasimha temple built in mid 13^th century by Bommanna Dandanayaka, a commander of the Hoysala empire. The entrance foyer of Sadashiva temple has numerous pillars which are devoid of carvings. The ceiling has beautiful carvings, but the exterior of the shrine doesn’t have any sculptures. A few blocks away, Lakshminarasimha temple too has numerous tall pillars in its entrance foyer. Though it can look beguiling from the entry portal, the shrine behind is built in typical Hoysala architecture. The shrine sits on a raised platform and has three towers with extensive and detailed carvings all over.

Nuggehalli is 53 Kms from Hassan

Buccesvara temple, Koravangala

Surrounded by a beautiful garden, Buccesvara temple in Koravangala has some of the best carvings amongst the lesser known Hoysala temples. It was built by Buchiraja in 12^th century to celebrate the coronation of King Veera Ballala II.  The temple has two shrines with beautiful sculptures of elephants and figurines near its entrance, intricate carvings on its roof and elaborate chisel work of mythological characters across its exterior. The two shrines dedicated to Shiva and Surya are connected by an inner hall which is adorned with beautiful lathed cylindrical pillars. The carving on the ceiling is the other interesting feature of this beautiful Hoysala temple.

Buccesvara temple is 12 Kms from Hassan

Lakshmi Devi temple, Doddagaddavahalli

Located next to a lake and surrounded by coconut groves in the serene Doddagadavahalli village, Lakshmi Devi temple looks attractive even from a distance. Built in early 12^th century by King Vishnuvardhana, this is one of the oldest Hoysala temples. The four gopurams (towers) atop the shrine is definitely the major architectural attraction here. It is devoid of a raised pedestal and carvings on the exterior wall, which are features of Hoysala architecture. Entrance to the inner shrine has wonderful sculptures of elephants and celestial door keepers. The entrance porch has numerous cylindrical pillars and gorgeous carvings on its ceiling.

Lakshmi devi temple is 20 Kms from Hassan

Lakshminarasimha temple, Javagal

With an impressive entrance foyer, Lakshminarasimha temple in Javagal is a popular temple in this small hamlet. Built in mid 13^th century by Veera Someshwara, Lakshminarasimha temple has all the features of Hoysala architecture. With elaborate carvings all around the exterior walls, the temple is built on a raised platform and has three shrines which are connected by a closed mantapa (hall). The carvings and sculptures are extensive and are the major attractions of this temple.

Lakshminarasimha temple is 42 Kms from Hassan

Lakshminarayana temple, Adagur

Located in a by lane in Adagur, Lakshminarayana temple is devoid of carvings despite being built in Hoysala architecture. With overgrown shrubs, the temple can be easily missed and remains closed. However, one can enter the premises to have a view of the shrine from outside.

Lakshminarayana temple is 47 Kms from Hassan

Twin temples of Marle

Built in the 12^th century, Keshava and Siddeshwara temple located in the tiny village of Marle do not have the charm of other Hoysala temples. While Sidheshwara temple has carvings and sculptures on its exterior wall, Keshava temple has lovely sculptures of elephants at its entrance. Both the temples are located in the same premises.

Marle is 53 Kms from Hassan

The other prominent Hoysala temples known for their gorgeous architecture are located at Haranahalli, Amruthapura and Arsikere.  However, there are many more Hoysala temples in and around Hassan which are not very popular.

Travel Tips:

• It is ideal to make Hassan the base to explore the temples.
• Most temples are open only in the morning and evening.
• At Belur and Halebidu opt for the guides to understand the stories and meaning of various carvings better.
• Though Belur and Halebidu has small restaurants outside the temple complex, most of the other temples are devoid of shops and eateries
• Carry sufficient amount of water as the walks can be quite long.

Navigator:

Hassan is 183 Kms from Bangalore, 119 Kms from Mysore and 172 Kms from Mangalore. Located on the Bangalore- Mangalore highway, Hassan is well connected to all major towns in Karnataka and there are numerous buses plying between them. The closest railhead is in Hassan and the nearest major airport is at Bangalore.

Food and Accommodation:

There are numerous mid range and budget hotels to stay in Hassan town. I stayed at Hotel Abhiruchi, which is centrally located. There are numerous vegetarian and non- vegetarian restaurants within the town.

Coorg- Beyond the Coffee Plantations

Aroma of the coffee flowers wafted across as I entered Virajpet, a town in South Coorg. Long trails beyond the small gates meandered through the coffee plantations leading to more aromas of the blooming flowers. It was the month of February, blossoming and plucking time in the coffee estates of this beautiful hill station. Apart from coffee, Coorg is also laced with pepper, cardamom and oranges as they entwine and blend with each other over acres of lush greenery.

Located in South Karnataka, Coorg also known as Kodagu is not just about coffee. It is also known for its waterfalls, treks, temples and undulating landscapes. Coorg is home to the Kodavas, a warrior clan known for their unique culture, lifestyle and cuisine. Many Coorgis have large plantations, live amidst the coffee beans and some have also converted their homes into home stays and resorts. Staying in one of them is undoubtedly the best way to know Coorgi culture and to explore coffee plantations.

The bustling Madikeri is the major town in Coorg and a popular jaunt with travellers as it is well connected to all major attractions. Abbey falls, a few kilometers from Madikeri, is a beautiful waterfall set amidst coffee plantations. It is a short walk down to falls which cascades over a few rocks and flows to join river Cauvery further down. Though best enjoyed during the monsoon or immediately after that, Abbey falls does have good water levels even in the winters.

Built by Kodava rulers, Madikeri fort was occupied by the Tipu Sultan and the British as well. Dilapidated to a small extent, the fort walls, bastions, canons, secret passages and prisons are a testimony of its past. Located in the middle of the town, the fort also houses a few old buildings and a chapel that has now been converted into a museum which has a wide display of artefacts and sculptures. Further down from the fort, a narrow road goes past a residential area to Gaddige, the tombs of Kodava kings, Doddaveerarajendra, Lingarajendra and Rudrappa, the royal priest. The beautiful domes and minarets depict the influence of the Indo- Sarcenic architecture. Apart from the tombs, the insides have beautiful arches.

Madikeri fort

Fort walls

Gaddige

Raja seat, near the fort is one of the favourite places to spend an evening for the locals and as well as visitors. The spread out garden and seating area offers a panoramic view of the sprawling hills and valleys apart from the breathtaking sunrises and sunsets. People happily sit here, play mellifluous songs and enjoy the vistas. As the sun goes down splashing a mélange of colours over the horizon, sporadic lights turn up across the valley. The Kodava kings and their family loved enjoying the sunsets from here and hence the name. Omkareshwara temple at the centre of Madikeri has a unique blend of Islamic and Gothic architecture. The colourfully painted temple with a beautiful pond is dedicated to Shiva and was built in early 19^th century by Lingarajendra, the Kodava king.

A short ride away from Madikeri lies Dubare, known for its water sports and elephant training centre. A short boat ride across the Cauvery takes you to the elephant training camp which gives an opportunity to feed, bathe and interact with the pachyderms. This is definitely an exciting place to visit for children. Rafting on the Cauvery is another popular activity in Dubare.

To the west of Madikeri, the road goes past numerous coffee plantations and lead to Talacauvery. This is where river Cauvery originates as a perennial spring in a pond and makes its way through the lush green hills of Coorg and then to other parts of the country. There are a couple of shrines here and gets quite crowded with pilgrims during weekends. A short trail behind goes all the way up and offers nice views of the surrounding hills. En-route Talacauvery lies the beautiful temple at Bagamandala dedicated to Baganandeshwara, a form a Shiva. It also has shrines of Vishnu and Brahma making it a unique temple. The dangling Chendas (drums) and mural art on its walls adds to the charm.

Talacauvery

Bagamandala temple

More sprawling plantations take you from Madikeri to Kakkabe, a serene town amidst the lush green estates of coffee and spices.  A detour from the main road leads to Padi Iguthappa temple, a revered deity of the Kodavas. Set on a hillock, the temple has low rise roofs and is amidst a serene surrounding. A narrow winding road from the town of Kakkabe leads to Nalknad palace, which was the hideout of the last Kodava king, Chikkaveerarajendra before surrendering to the British in 1834 CE. Built in 1792 CE by Doddaveerarajendra, the two-storeyed structure has beautiful mural paintings, colourful ceilings, decorated pillars with intricately carved windows and doors which are a peep into the regal past of the royal kingdom. There is a dark room and a narrow passage that leads to it, which is quite interesting. Chinkara falls, near Kabinakkad junction in Kakkabe is a lovely cascading waterfalls which one can reach after a very short trek. Gurgling past the boulders, the falls is best viewed during the monsoon. Tadiyandamol, the highest peak (5730 feet) in Coorg and the second highest in Karnataka is located close by. One can either trek from Palace estate or start from Honey valley estate to trek Tadiyandamol peak. Chelavara falls is another beautiful waterfall in Kakkabe region. This is however a bit isolated and requires a short trek and a long detour from the main road. One can spot numerous colourful butterflies here.

Nalknad palace

Virajpet in south Coorg is an important trading centre and one of the largest producers of honey in Asia. Located close to Iritty in Kerala, the town is a cultural melting pot and is known for its secular outlook.  St. Anne’s church inside a school premises with a European and Gothic architecture is a landmark structure. First built in late 18^th century, the present structure was rebuilt in mid 19^th century and has gorgeously decorated interiors.The clock towner in the middle of Virajpet town is more than a hundred years old and was built to commemorate King George V’s visit to India. The road that leads to Iritty takes you to Perambady lake, which is known for its picturesque surroundings.

To the north of Madikeri lies the secluded Mallalli falls, the largest in Coorg. Gushing through lush greenery, the falls lies close to the trekking route to Kumara Parvata. Irpu falls near Nagarhole national park is a two tiered falls in Southern Coorg. Lakshmana theertha transforms into Irpu falls here as it rages through a set of large boulders. Look around and you would be able to spot numerous colourful butterflies (Papilio Buddha). The trail further up from the falls requires permission from authorities. 

Irpu falls

Though not in Coorg, Bylakuppe located near Kushalnagara is a huge Tibetan colony with many monasteries and is a must visit place while in Madikeri.

Kodavas are known for their traditional attires which are mostly worn during functions and to temples. While women clad sarees in a different style, men wear a turban along with a gown and a peechekathi (dagger). It is a crime to leave Coorg without a taste of the ever popular Pandi curry (Pork curry). It goes well with kadumputtu (rice dumplings), akki roti (rice roti) and nool puttu (rice noodles). Wash it down with a cup of hot Coorgi coffee. Coorg is also known for its honey and home made wines.

Coorgi women at Omkareshwara temple

Kadumputtu and Pandi curry

Travel Tips:

• Make Madikeri the base to travel to all tourist destinations.
• Though coffee blooming season is January and February, the ideal time to visit Coorg would be post the monsoons.

Location:

South Karnataka

Madikeri to Mysore- 118 Kms

Madikeri to Bangalore- 248 Kms
Madikeri to Kakkabe- 31 Kms
Madikeri to Talacauvery- 44 Kms
Madikeri to Dubare- 37 Kms

The closest rail head is at Mysore (118Kms) and the nearest major airport is in Bangalore (285 Kms)

Food and Accommodation:

Relish the Coorgi cuisine at Taste of Coorg and Coorg Cuisine, which are located near the fort. There are other restaurants too which serve south Indian and Coorgi cuisines. Being a popular tourist destination, there are wide ranges of accommodation options available across Coorg. I stayed at Thelma Studios, a couple of kilometers away from Raja seat. This is an excellent place to stay which offers all basic facilities and is definitely recommended.

Bylakuppe- Monasteries, Monks and Momos

Until I took a detour, the surroundings were no different from the many interior highways that run through the state of Karnataka. From then on, it seemed a different place with Tibetan scripts written everywhere, fluttering prayer flags, strolling maroon robed monks and the waft of Tibetan cuisine from restaurants. Though Bylakuppe is geographically in Karnataka, it did seem like I was transported a few thousand kilometers away to the highlands of Tibet. Despite the influx of tourists in the last many years that has made it a far cry from the serene Buddhist settlements up in the Himalayas, Bylakuppe still remains a secluded place away from the maddening world outside.

Located in Mysore district and bordering Coorg, Bylakuppe is the largest Tibetan settlement in India, south of the Himalayas. Bylakuppe was established in 1960s when the then Mysore government allotted 3000 acres of land for Tibetan exile settlement. They were also provided with houses, schools and primary health care. Home to tens of thousands of Tibetans who have come from places as far as Tibet, Nepal and even Mongolia, Bylakuppe can arguably be called the Tibet of South India. It is also home to all the four major schools of Tibetan Buddhism- Nyingmapa, Sakya, Kagyudpa and Gelugpa.

Vast open lands strewn with Tibetan houses, prayer flags and colourful monasteries welcomed as I rode past many Buddhist monks. The most popular and visited monastery is Namdroling, which can be sighted from a distance. I quickly walked past the hordes of visitors into the premises of the monastery. It gets quite crowded here during the weekends. Believed to the largest teaching centre of Nyingmapa sect, Namdroling monastery houses more than 4000 monks who come here to study. Zangdog Palri Temple is the first attractive structure as you enter the temple. I feel this temple arguably has the most beautiful exterior amongst all other temples and monasteries in Bylakuppe. The hemispherical structure atop its roof is definitely the highlight of this temple.

To the left of it lies Padmavasambhava Buddhist Vihara also referred to as Golden temple. With coulourful wall paintings beside its entrance, the interiors can leave a first time visitor gaping for a while. The 60 foot tall statues of Guru Padmasambhava, Buddha Sakhyamuni and Buddha Amitayus sit serenely amidst the colourful paintings, sculptures, small statues and other paraphernalia. Made of copper and plated with gold, the insides of the statues have scriptures, relics and clay moulded stupas. I sat down near one of the colourful pillars to get away from the crowd who were keener on taking selfies than soaking in the ambiance of the temple. Visitors aren’t allowed near the statues and can be viewed only from a few feet away. However, Tibetan visitors are allowed to go atop the raised platforms to pay their homage, and were let in by the lone monk who patrolled around. If not for the crowd, the huge hall is an ideal place to meditate and let go of your worries. After a few minutes of meditation, I strolled around the hall which also has numerous colourful wall paintings that depict the life story of Buddha, his disciples, various deities, throne holders of Palyul tradition and scholars of Nyingmapa sect.

As more crowd walked in, I headed out to the nearby prayer hall where gongs were played and hymns were chanted. Visitors aren’t allowed inside during prayer time and hence had to listen from outside. On my way out of the monastery, spotted a few young monks playing badminton in a narrow passage near their lodging facility. Though they follow the schedules of their monastic life, the monks do find time for their recreational activities and to go around Bylakuppe or the nearby town.  Opposite to the golden temple is a line of shops that sell a variety of Tibetan items, artifacts, jewellery, books and flags. This is an ideal place to pick up a Tibetan souvenir.

A stone’s throw away from the golden temple is the Nyingmapa nunnery, which was devoid of any crowd, a stark difference from the monastery. I was the only visitor there and contemplated going inside the shrine until a few Tibetans came along to pay homage. I tip toed inside along with the Tibetans. Vibrant colours, artworks and glassed statues adorn the interiors. As I walked out after a while, spotted a few nuns enjoying a meal in the garden outside. When requested for a capture on my camera, they happily gave thumbs up and posed.

A short ride of 2-3 Kms led to Tashi Lhunpo monastery, the youngest of all the monasteries in Bylakuppe. A young lama peeped out through the gate and smiled. He ran in to call his friends as I entered the premises of the monastery. They wanted their photo to be clicked and wanted to click too. With beaming smiles they posed and went back to their game of corridor cricket and I walked towards the monastery. Though I initially mistook a small prayer hall to be the monastery, Tashi Lhunpo monastery is actually the largest one in Bylakuppe which can accommodate thousands of monks. It stands intimidating with a fleet of steps that lead up to it. Decorated with colourful paintings near the entrance, the interiors are adorned with pillars, hanging colourful papers, Tibetan scripts, wall paintings and a tall glassed statue of Buddha. Belonging to the Gelugpa sect, it is definitely the most colourful monastery I have been to.

Sera Je and Sera Me which lies a few kilometers away, are also schools of Gelugpa sect and is home to thousands of young monks.

It was a bit tough to locate Kagyudpa monastic institute as I rode around for a while and enquired numerous times to get there. Outside the entrance gate, three beautiful chortens stood tall along with prayer wheels. With absolutely no other visitors, the monastery which belongs to Kagyu sect of Tibetan Buddhism had a serene ambiance and a well kept beautiful garden. A few monks crossed paths as I strolled around. The monastery also has an incense manufacturing unit within its premises.

The maroon coloured Tsechen Choekorling is located just before the Namdroling monastery while coming from the highway. This was another monastery which was devoid of the crowds. Though the monk near the entrance said it was open and I could go in, the bright red door remained closed. As I stood there confused, a Tibetan mother and her two kids walked in through the side door and I quietly followed them. The small tables and cushions were still inside the hall and it seemed that the monks had just left after their prayers. Though not as colourful as other monasteries’ interiors, the predominant colour was yellow and not maroon.

When in Bylakuppe, how can one leave without having a taste of Tibetan cuisine? I rounded my visit with a Thukpa and momos (dim sum) at one of the Tibetan restaurants near the golden temple. Thukpa is a noodle soup, while momos is a type of filled dumpling. There are both vegetarian and meat varients available for both the dishes at all the restaurants.

Though it has got quite crowded over the years, the monasteries apart from Namdroling (golden temple) are mostly devoid of visitors. To have a serene experience of a Tibetan Buddhist monastery in Bylakuppe, these are the ones to visit. A few monasteries also provide accommodation and vegetarian food. A visit during the festivals such as Losar, Buddha Jayanti etc. would be a great time to be at these monasteries of Bylakuppe.

Travel Tips:

• Kindly check with the monks before taking their photographs.
• Be modestly dressed and avoid revealing ones.
• Prayer wheels are to be turned in clock wise direction only.
• Most monasteries close by 5 PM.
• If you don’t have a vehicle, autorickshaws are the only modes of transport available to go around Bylakuppe.

Location and Getting there:

South Karnataka

Bylakuppe to Mysore- 85Kms

Bylakuppe to Kushalnagar- 10 Kms

Closest major railhead is at Mysore (85 Kms) and nearest airport is also in Mysore.

There are frequent buses plying between Mysore and Coorg. Get down at Kushalnagar and take an autorickshaw to reach Bylakuppe.

Food and Accommodation:

There are numerous restaurants and small cafe near golden temple and on Bylakuppe main road which offers both Tibetan and multi cuisines. There are more options available at Kushalnagar. Bylakuppe has a few homestays, apart from accommodation at the monasteries’ guesthouses. However, there are more mid range options available in Kushalnagar. If you are keen on luxury, Amanavana and Windflower resort are a few kilometers ahead of Kushalnagar.