Until I took a detour, the surroundings were no different from the many interior highways that run through the state of Karnataka. From then on, it seemed a different place with Tibetan scripts written everywhere, fluttering prayer flags, strolling maroon robed monks and the waft of Tibetan cuisine from restaurants. Though Bylakuppe is geographically in Karnataka, it did seem like I was transported a few thousand kilometers away to the highlands of Tibet. Despite the influx of tourists in the last many years that has made it a far cry from the serene Buddhist settlements up in the Himalayas, Bylakuppe still remains a secluded place away from the maddening world outside.
Located in Mysore district and bordering Coorg, Bylakuppe is
the largest Tibetan settlement in India, south of the Himalayas. Bylakuppe was
established in 1960s when the then Mysore government allotted 3000 acres of
land for Tibetan exile settlement. They were also provided with houses, schools and
primary health care. Home to tens of thousands of Tibetans who have come from places
as far as Tibet, Nepal and even Mongolia, Bylakuppe can arguably be called the
Tibet of South India. It is also home to all the four major schools of Tibetan
Buddhism- Nyingmapa, Sakya, Kagyudpa and Gelugpa.
Vast open lands strewn with Tibetan houses, prayer flags and
colourful monasteries welcomed as I rode past many Buddhist monks. The most
popular and visited monastery is Namdroling, which can be sighted from a
distance. I quickly walked past the hordes of visitors into the premises of the
monastery. It gets quite crowded here during the weekends. Believed to the
largest teaching centre of Nyingmapa sect, Namdroling monastery houses more than
4000 monks who come here to study. Zangdog Palri Temple is the first attractive
structure as you enter the temple. I feel this temple arguably has the most
beautiful exterior amongst all other temples and monasteries in Bylakuppe. The
hemispherical structure atop its roof is definitely the highlight of this
temple.
To the left of it lies Padmavasambhava Buddhist Vihara also
referred to as Golden temple. With coulourful wall paintings beside its
entrance, the interiors can leave a first time visitor gaping for a while. The
60 foot tall statues of Guru Padmasambhava, Buddha Sakhyamuni and Buddha
Amitayus sit serenely amidst the colourful paintings, sculptures, small statues
and other paraphernalia. Made of copper and plated with gold, the insides of
the statues have scriptures, relics and clay moulded stupas. I sat down near
one of the colourful pillars to get away from the crowd who were keener on taking
selfies than soaking in the ambiance of the temple. Visitors aren’t allowed near the statues and
can be viewed only from a few feet away. However, Tibetan visitors are allowed to
go atop the raised platforms to pay their homage, and were let in by the
lone monk who patrolled around. If not for the crowd, the huge hall is an ideal
place to meditate and let go of your worries. After a few minutes of
meditation, I strolled around the hall which also has numerous colourful wall
paintings that depict the life story of Buddha, his disciples, various deities,
throne holders of Palyul tradition and scholars of Nyingmapa sect.
As more crowd walked in, I headed out to the nearby prayer hall where
gongs were played and hymns were chanted. Visitors aren’t allowed inside during
prayer time and hence had to listen from outside. On my way out of the
monastery, spotted a few young monks playing badminton in a narrow passage near
their lodging facility. Though they follow the schedules of their monastic life,
the monks do find time for their recreational activities and to go around
Bylakuppe or the nearby town. Opposite
to the golden temple is a line of shops that sell a variety of Tibetan items,
artifacts, jewellery, books and flags. This is an ideal place to pick up a Tibetan
souvenir.
A stone’s throw away from the golden temple is the Nyingmapa nunnery, which was devoid of any crowd, a stark difference from the monastery. I was the only visitor there and contemplated going inside the shrine until a few Tibetans came along to pay homage. I tip toed inside along with the Tibetans. Vibrant colours, artworks and glassed statues adorn the interiors. As I walked out after a while, spotted a few nuns enjoying a meal in the garden outside. When requested for a capture on my camera, they happily gave thumbs up and posed.
A short ride of 2-3 Kms led to Tashi Lhunpo monastery,
the youngest of all the monasteries in Bylakuppe. A young lama peeped out
through the gate and smiled. He ran in to call his friends as I
entered the premises of the monastery. They wanted their photo to be clicked
and wanted to click too. With beaming smiles they posed and went back to their
game of corridor cricket and I walked towards the monastery. Though I initially
mistook a small prayer hall to be the monastery, Tashi Lhunpo monastery is actually the largest one in Bylakuppe which can accommodate thousands of monks. It
stands intimidating with a fleet of steps that lead up to it. Decorated with
colourful paintings near the entrance, the interiors are adorned with pillars, hanging
colourful papers, Tibetan scripts, wall paintings and a tall glassed statue of
Buddha. Belonging to the Gelugpa sect, it is definitely the most colourful monastery
I have been to.
Sera Je and Sera Me which lies a few kilometers away, are
also schools of Gelugpa sect and is home to thousands of young monks.
It was a bit tough to locate Kagyudpa monastic institute as
I rode around for a while and enquired numerous times to get there. Outside the
entrance gate, three beautiful chortens stood tall along with prayer wheels.
With absolutely no other visitors, the monastery which belongs to Kagyu sect of
Tibetan Buddhism had a serene ambiance and a well kept beautiful garden. A few
monks crossed paths as I strolled around. The monastery also has an incense
manufacturing unit within its premises.
The maroon coloured Tsechen Choekorling is located just
before the Namdroling monastery while coming from the highway. This was another
monastery which was devoid of the crowds. Though the monk near the entrance
said it was open and I could go in, the bright red door remained closed. As I stood there confused, a Tibetan mother and her two kids
walked in through the side door and I quietly followed them. The small tables
and cushions were still inside the hall and it seemed that the monks had just
left after their prayers. Though not as colourful as other monasteries’
interiors, the predominant colour was yellow and not maroon.
When in Bylakuppe, how can one leave without having a taste
of Tibetan cuisine? I rounded my visit with a Thukpa and momos (dim sum) at one
of the Tibetan restaurants near the golden temple. Thukpa is a noodle soup,
while momos is a type of filled dumpling. There are both vegetarian and meat
varients available for both the dishes at all the restaurants.
Though it has got quite crowded over the years, the
monasteries apart from Namdroling (golden temple) are mostly devoid of visitors.
To have a serene experience of a Tibetan Buddhist monastery in Bylakuppe,
these are the ones to visit. A few monasteries also provide accommodation and vegetarian
food. A visit during the festivals such as Losar, Buddha Jayanti etc. would be a great time to be at
these monasteries of Bylakuppe.
Travel Tips:
- Kindly check with the monks before taking their photographs.
- Be modestly dressed and avoid revealing ones.
- Prayer wheels are to be turned in clock wise direction only.
- Most monasteries close by 5 PM.
- If you don’t have a vehicle, autorickshaws are the only modes of transport available to go around Bylakuppe.
Location and Getting there:
South Karnataka
Bylakuppe to Mysore- 85Kms
Bylakuppe to Kushalnagar- 10 Kms
Closest major railhead is at Mysore (85 Kms) and nearest
airport is also in Mysore.
There are frequent buses plying between Mysore and Coorg.
Get down at Kushalnagar and take an autorickshaw to reach Bylakuppe.
Food and Accommodation:
There are numerous restaurants and small cafe near golden
temple and on Bylakuppe main road which offers both Tibetan and multi cuisines.
There are more options available at Kushalnagar. Bylakuppe has a few homestays,
apart from accommodation at the monasteries’ guesthouses. However, there are
more mid range options available in Kushalnagar. If you are keen on luxury,
Amanavana and Windflower resort are a few kilometers ahead of Kushalnagar.
