Tadiandamol Trek and Barapole River Rafting...!!

When I half opened my eyes it was 4 am, our vehicle was manoeuvering  the curves covered up in mist. With hardly 20 metre visibility the vehicle was going past the coffee plantations in Madikeri, Coorg. By the time sun came out, we were speeding past further plantations and paddy fields to Kabinakkad. After a break for tea at the diversion to Honey valley estate where we were put up, we clung on to the four wheeler that took us up to the estate. By then it began drizzling and the drive through a 10 feet wide stoned and slushy pathway turned exhilarating. We went higher and higher past the coffee plantations and gurgling streams. Chingara waterfalls could be seen from a distance and being monsoon, the falls was at its fieriest best.

Before long, we covered the 3 Km stretch and were at the entrance of our resort- Honey Valley. Nestled amidst coffee plantations and with stunning hills in the background, the resort is perfectly placed in the lap of nature. The magnificent views of the plantations from the cottages was a sight to behold. 

View of the coffee plantations from the resort

After the morning ablutions and breakfast we began our first task, trek to the peak of Tadiandamol. Situated at a height of 1748 metres above sea level, it is the third highest peak in Karnataka. This was my first experience of monsoon trekking and I was quite sure about what lay ahead- rains and leeches. The sky had by then cleared up and the trek began after taking the precautionary measures of salt, vinegar, lime etc to counter the blood sucking leeches. Rather than the usual start point of palace estate (which is also a shorter route) which trekkers take, we decided to go for the longer one from Honey valley estate. Though almost double the distance, the panoramic vistas are breathtaking is what my guide mentioned.

The initial stretch was slightly steep and went above the plantations and resort. Laden with stones, the pathway turned green on either sides and then became a smooth track. Two dogs from the resort accompanied us when we began the trek. To my surprise they trekked the whole stretch with us. The 20 minute initial walk gave us a glimpse of what lay ahead as it began drizzling and a leech or two was seen clinging on to our shoes. We crossed a small forest patch before reaching a clearing. Two locals who were to be our guides through the trek was waiting for us. By then the drizzle had become incessant, the distant hills were engulfed in fog, earth look so red and wet and we followed our guides along a trek path into the green hills.

The initial stretch

Our local guides

Open lands

We continued our trek into the forest patches with frequent checks for leeches. Leeches had by then clung onto everyone's shoes and and making their way up. First timers let out their shrieks which mellowed down once the salt was applied and the slimy ones were plucked out. But there was no respite from the blood suckers as each step we took made a new one climb onto us. Each moment spend on taking out a leech allowed a couple of others to get on us. And taking them off  your body wasn't an easy task. You really need to pluck them out along with salt. We were loosing time because of the leeches and the rain, and after a while I just decided to give up on leeches and just trek fast. I could see at least ten leeches at a time on the outer of my shoes and could also feel the bites inside. But I just trekked on. 

The open lands turned into goat tracks which were slippery and the vantage points were engulfed in mist denying us the beautiful vistas. From the open vast lands we moved into forest patches and from there to hill tops which were soaked in rain. The tracks in certain places had become slushy with small puddles. We then for a long while trekked along the ridges with the engulfing mist which had reduced the visibility to less than a hundred feet The slopes looked gorgeous with vistas showing up intermittently. However the rain gods weren't that kind enough. But this is exactly how a monsoon trek is like and I had absolutely no complaints.

Forest patch

Mist engulfed hills

Yes, that is the track!

The landscapes kept changing with small forest patches again showing up followed by open lands. There were stretches that were rocky but the marked path helped us trek it without much difficulty. We had climbed a couple of hills and had a few more to go before reaching the base of Tadiyandamol. Without the vistas I was slowly getting disappointed and the leeches which were feasting inside my shoes made me restless. We had specifically taken this long route just for the vistas but nature had other plans. I did manage to capture a few frames of the landscape before my camera went kaput. Water seeped through due to the continuous rains and it just stopped functioning. So, from then on it was just pure trekking with the leeches and rain. No frames and no vistas!

Slowly the landscape changed and turned tougher as the track we followed were covered by tall grasses. The rains became stronger and we had another 3-4 kilometers to the top of the peak. All we could see were our two guides and the dogs a few meters ahead of us and we just kept following them along the covered track. This was supposedly the dangerous stretch during the trek as there was hardly any support and the tracks were either slippery or had gravel . With low visibility and incessant rain we trod forward precariously.

Hill slopes

After an hour of trek through the grasslands along the ridges, we made it to an open land and then joined a wide track which was supposedly the short route from palace estate. We were close to the base of Tadiandamol but were confused and contemplating about future of the trek. It was a further two kilometers to the peak and we were already running short of time. All were completely drenched and the leech bites had not gone down well with most of them. After a short discussion we decided to call off the trek due to shortage of time. We were also yet to take a break for lunch which would definitely be time consuming. We would not have got back before dark had we continued to the summit. 

With drooping shoulders we walked along the palace estate track to the starting point of the shorter route. This stretch seemed much easier and was mostly devoid of leeches, but a few were spotted. The big attraction was the numerous monsoon waterfalls which we passed by. With monsoon at its peak, all the streams and creeks were at their glorious best. They were full and gushing down the hills. Each time I passed a waterfall, I looked at my camera and gave a sigh. This part of the trek was definitely a walk in the lap of nature. When I waded past the ankle high waters, I could feel the slimy blood suckers inside the shoes getting active and wriggling through my toes. The rain had receded by then and the first thing to run into my mind was Murphy's law. 

In between we stopped by for lunch at an abandoned house en route. I was amused when I removed my shoes and blood soaked socks as five or six blood drunk leeches rolled out of it. They almost resembled balls and were half the size of my index finger. People pay a big price for a leech therapy and here I have it as a compliment with my trek. After all the cleaning and gulping down the lunch that was carried, we began our walk further down to where the resort vehicles were to take us back. The vehicle came in some time and we clambered into it along with our local guides and the dogs. This was definitely a tailor made monsoon trek. Rains, mist, vistas, vantage points, greenery, waterfalls, leeches and wet earth all made it a perfect one. Except for the low point of not trekking to the summit of Tadiyandamol, the trek was an absolute rejuvenation. Now I have a reason to trek Tadiandamol again.

Woods are lovely, dark, deep and misty too!

The next day began with our drive from Honey valley estate to Barapole river for rafting. River rafting was something new to me and after the previous day's disappointment of not trekking to the top, I was definitely looking forward to this adventure. After the declarations, instructions and guidance, we geared up to lift take the rafts into the cold waters of Barapole. The river was at its flowing best and the rain which had not stopped ever since we landed in Coorg, helped it. Being amateurs and beginners, we were sceptical in the begining but slowly turned confident and rowed according to our guide's guidance. 

After an initial stretch of calm waters of more than half a kilometer, our guide stopped rowing and asked us to take a plunge. The river was mostly stagnant were we had stopped and one by one all just jumped into the cold waters of Barapole. This was to get ourselves accustomed to the water in case of a topple. We swam, frolicked, clicked photographs and played for about half an hour before getting back on the raft. Then began the rafting with instructions flowing from the guide along with quirky names of rapids like The Big Bang and Ram Jaane. Each rapid has a name but these two were the prominent ones and as the name suggests, were definitely the most adrenaline rushing ones. Each rapid had dips and rocks which we had to raft through and the excitement grew as we passed each rapid. Our already soaked bodies were further drenched and the two hour adventure was definitely exhilarating. The adventure finally came to an end after almost a two and a half kilometer stretch of rafting. We then drove back carrying the rafts for a hot cup of coffee by the free flowing Barapole river.

Signing Note- Coorg is undoubtedly an adventure seeker's paradise...!!

Route- Bangalore- Mandya- Srirangapatna- Hunsur- Gonikoppal- Virajpet- Kabinakkad
Distance- 270 Kms

Flea Market...!!

Anjuna, Goa. December 2012.

Nandi Hills- The Hill Fortress...!!

It was a spur of a moment decision to take the road to Nandi hills. It had been five years since I last visited the nice little hill and six years since I rode to it. The cloudy cold climate fueled it further and before we could plan anything, we had crossed half way, gobbled an Ambur biriyani and had taken the detour off NH-7. After the deviation, it was a ride through the villages with small gatherings and shops popping up at intervals. The route was adorned with wine yards all the way till the base of the hill. Distant hills confused us as to which was the actual one that we were about to climb and the guessing game went on till we reached the top. However the road that led us had no such qualms and we rode on past the villages on to the ghats.

Eucalyptus trees, chill breeze, bonnet macaques and magnificent vistas welcomed us as we went higher past the curves on the smooth tarmac.  There were no big hair pin bends but a couple of them were steep. The wayside view points made us break for a photo session before lunging forward towards the hill fortress. We were soon at the entrance of the fort which lies atop the hill. The 18th century fort which belonged to Tipu Sulthan has a beautifully carved entrance gate. We went inside, parked our bike, bought tickets and then strolled inside the fort.

Tipu's summer lodge was the first place we visited. It looked slightly dilapidated and neglected. The rooms were locked and after peeping through the windows of the same we walked ahead to the stepped tank, Amrita Sarovara. Though it is devoid of carvings and architecture, the steps looked beautiful as it goes down to the waters. There is also a small park near the tank. Arkavathy river and Pennar river has its origins in these hills.

From the tank it was a climb up the steps through thick vegetation. Though it was not raining, the effects of monsoon were clearly visible as the place was green, looked fresh and smelled of the earth. The hike took us to the top of the fort which has many elevated resting places. Further up its rocky and there is a temple right on top, the Yoganandeeshwara swamy temple with beautiful carvings and stone works. The authorities have also created a seating area which gives brilliant vistas of the plain below. We found it a bit tough to sit there for long due to the strong cool breeze. However to sit there and stare at the horizon, the blue sky, the grey clouds, the green paddy fields and the greenish brown hills below was truly a surreal experience. To its left there is a small sky walk to help the visitors get a different angle to the vistas. Another interesting point of visit is the Tipu's drop. Tipu Sulthan used to punish his captives to death by pushing them down a 2000 feet drop. Though exciting, it might not be a very safe place to wander around. The edges of the rocks have also been fenced for the safety of tourists. This also gives everyone an opportunity to get close to the fences and gaze at the vistas in oblivion.

There is a restaurant next to the sky walk which faces the plains below. It also provides options for stay. Boghanandeeshwara swamy temple at the base of the hills is another popular point of visit and has numerous visitors during the day. The ride back was equally exciting with winding roads and the cool breeze.

Signing Note- Head up the hill and listen to the chimes of the wind...!!

Route- Bengaluru- Devanahalli- Nandi Hills
Distance- 60 Kms

The Plains...!!

Expansive plains of Tamil Nadu as seen from the hills of Yelagiri. July 2013.

A Madrasa...!!

Srirangapatna. June 2013.

The Orange Sky...!!

Rayalseema, Andhra Pradesh. March 2013.

Floating Boats...!!

Tales of a Nomad...!! celebrates 4 years of blogging with this frame from coastal Maharashtra. Thank you all for your visits, encouragements, criticisms and comments.

Rajapuri jetty, Murud, Maharashtra. May2013.

Chitradurga- A Bygone Era...!!

The cool morning breeze kissed our faces as we rode on NH-4 and a break for a cup of tea somewhere in the middle of nowhere refreshed us like nothing else. It was a cold morning and the ride was to the seven walled fort of Chitradurga. The ride was smooth with beautiful vistas all along the highway, but turned dusty as we entered the town of Chitradurga. The fort is quite famous and any layman on the road would direct you easily. Chitradurga fort is on a hillock which was once occupied by the demon siblings Hidimba and Hidimbi during the Mahabharata days. The fort built between the 10th and 18th century changed hands from various rulers till it was majorly expanded by the Nayaka family druing the ruling of Vijayanagara empire in the 16th century. It was later captured by Hyder Ali in the 18th century. The fort whose actual name was Chitrakaldurga is also locally known as Yelusuttina Kotte (seven walled fort) and Kallina Kotte(stone fort).

 As we entered its premises all I could see were tall fort ramparts and the walk inside lead us to the first ninety degree ('L' shaped) pathway. That was the first instance where I had seen such an entrance and that caught my attention. We crossed the first entry gate and walked up to meet a man who approached us saying he is a licensed guide and could help us show around the fort. After a glance at his details we trudged further as our guide explained the history of the fort, its importance during the times of various rulers and about the important marks and points inside the fort. Though the guide explained in a mix of Kannada and English, I was glad that we took him along. Walking around the fort without a guide might have been a rueful decision as staring at those wonderfully carved structures would have left us with brilliant visuals and absolutely nil knowledge.

The 'L' shaped entry

The main entry door

The sprawling citadel which is strewn over many hills is famous for its seven fortified walls and beautiful landscape speckled with boulders. The fort was so smartly built with seven fortifications to protect the inner areas and the pathways in 'L' shapes were to make sure the enemy was forced to reduce its speed and advances during attacks. The lower most fortification has four major entrances. The fort walls have been beautifully maintained in most areas and each of the entrances have well chiseled doorways and stone carvings. As we ascended past each fortification getting closer to the insides of the fort, the landscape turned from beautiful to mesmerising with magnificent vistas, scenic valleys, wonderfully carved stone structures, beautiful temples, tanks filled with green waters and distant houses which seemed miniature amidst the massive boulders.

An entry door at one of the fortifications

The fort which changed hands from Mauryas to Rashtrakutas to Chalukyas to Hoysalas to Nayakas to Hyder Ali has seen a lot of up-gradations, inscriptions, additions and architectures from various eras. As we walked we were shown the various important points inside the fort by the guide. These included Bombe mantapa, oil storage tanks, akka-thanki kola (ponds named after two sisters who were princesses), ancient gymnasium, a high swing frame which is more than 30 feet tall, a monolithic pillar, a jail, peculiar rock formations (rocks which resemble an elephant, a frog and a rhinoceros), drawings on rocks from pre-historic era, treasuries, a stepped tank used during holi, rain water harvesting structures, a mill to grind gun powder, exquisitely carved temples, a mosque built by Hyder Ali and the elaborate pavilions. The guide also mentioned that whole fort area was never short of water due to the exceptional water storage system.

The swing frame and pillar

One of the ponds

One of the many temples

An important and famous point inside the fort in Onake Obbava. Legend says that through a small crevice inside the fort, enemy soldiers were trying to make their way into this impregnable fort. Obbava, the wife of one of the soldiers of Nayaka's saw this and killed each of those intruders with an onake (pestle). The place was then named after her for her bravery and valour.

Onake Obbava

At the third fortification entrance we were enchanted by the acrobatics of Jyothi Raj (a.k.a Kothi Raj). There was a small crowd which was stunned by this wall climbing man. He is no normal wall climber as he crawls up the high fort walls with bare hands in a few seconds. You blink an eye and he is n top of the wall. Kothi in Kannada means monkey and he truly does acrobatics like one. He is quite famous and can be easily found inside the fort during weekends to entertain the visitors.

Kothi Raj 

We covered more steps, passed many brilliant architectures, went between boulders, crossed the many doorways and fortifications of the 1500 acre fort and found ourselves perspiring more than ever under the blazing sun. However the ever changing views of the fort kept us amazed and made us cover a large part of it. The landscape of the fort reminded me a lot of the ruins of Hampi. It is also a great place for rock climbing. There is a small shop inside the fort which serves refreshments. After gulping down a couple of glasses of cold butter milk we bade good bye to our guide, walked back through the fort walls, exited the citadel and rode towards Chandravalli caves.

Situated 4 kms away from the fort, Chandravalli caves is near a beautiful lake and is situated between two monolithic rocks. There is a small temple next to these underground caves. Here too we had to hire a guide or else we would not have come out of the cave which goes down upto 80 feet below the ground. Darkness, dampness and bats welcomed us as we stepped down into the cave with our guide who led the way with a torch. The cave was supposedly occupied by saints and monks for a long period and does have paintings and carvings on its wall. It also has seatings, cots, bath tubs etc which shows presence of human living. Excavations have proved that Chandravalli caves have been inhibited from the days of iron age and archaeologists have found coins, pottery and vessels from those ages. We crawled, sneaked and pushed ourselves through that darkness, smelling the pungent rocks and staring at the dangling bats from the roofs to experience life inside a cave. As I came out of the cave in search of fresh air, what made me curious was the reason behind people confining themselves to such harsh living.

Inside the cave

Bats on the roof

Going down the cave

From the historic and pre- historic era we decided to visit Vani Vilas dam, a modern era creation. It is a detour from Hiriyur (On Bangalore- Chitradurga road, 32 Kms from Hiriyur) that took us past the country roads and then on to the top of a hill. We were stunned as we rode up the hill when the magnificent Vani Vilas dam spread out before us. Surrounded by massive hills, the placid waters of the dam shimmered as the evening sun was about to set. There is a wonderful walkway which provides stunning views of the waters. After capturing the setting sun, the calm waters, the green hills and a lonely coracle rider we had a long tiring ride back to Bangalore.

Vani vilas dam

Signing Note- Transport yourself to historic and pre- historic times and get lost amidst those boulders, architectures and caves of Chitradurga...!!

Route- Bangalore- Tumkur- Hiriyur- Chitradurga
Distance- 200 Kms

Responsible Tourism and Mature Actions...!!

The natural calamity that has swept away the state of Uttarkhand is not the first instance where mankind has taken the wrath of nature. There are many such natural calamities which has been a result of irresponsible actions. Nature gives back to you what you give her. Hills are drilled to make roads, the flow of rivers are either diverted or stopped to build dams and trees are cut to construct new buildings. What comes later in the form a natural calamity is definitely a result of these senseless actions. All this over a period of time only leads to soil erosion, landslides, floods, cloud bursts and much more. Without taking into consideration the aftermaths of excessive tourism and developments, authorities have been senselessly coming out with new resorts and infrastructures. As in the case of Uttarkhand and similar other stories, it is not that the calamity washes the place and all is back to normalcy soon. Lives are lost, homes are washed away, animals get buried, ecosystem is dislodged and whatever infrastructure was built flows away with nature. Undoubtedly these need at least a couple of years to get back on track. Hopefully the relief work would get its act done soon and slowly but steadily Uttarkhand would be back to its old self.

Tourism, infrastructure and civilization must be stopped where it has to be. Excessive tourism is one area that the authorities need to take a stern stand on. Places with varied biodiversity needs special attention. It is the duty of every visitor to make sure that tourist and pilgrimage  destinations are kept clean by not dumping waste and plastics at their arm's stretch. If there is a hill that must not be accessed or a lake that must not be waded into or a nomadic tribe which must not be interacted with, so be it. Let those locations and people remain unexplored and unknown because that is what the nature expects from mankind. To all those tourists, travellers, organizers, authorities, geologists and everyone who is in one way or the other related to mother earth- 'Please make an effort to cut down all those excessive developments which are absolutely unnecessary and let us spread the seeds of mature actions/ decisions and responsible tourism to make the world a better and a safer place to live in'.

Mekedatu and Sangam...!!

Grey clouds loomed ahead as we began our ride towards Sangam and further ahead to Mekedatu. Except for a light drizzle the ride was smooth and the sky got clear by the time we reached Sangam. Sangam is the confluence of River Cauvery and River Arkavati and a frequented picnic spot. The place was quite crowded being a weekend and the shallow waters at Sangam prompted many to have a splash. The clear blue sky, the flowing waters and the green hills in the background made for a wonderful landscape.

Coracles were available in plenty and we had a ride on one to get over to the other side of Sangam. From there it was a short bus ride along the Cauvery to Mekedatu. We were in for a shock on seeing the bus that was to commute us. Colourful, rusty and rickety are the three best words to describe it. With apprehensive minds we sat inside the bus and then began the roller coaster ride. Everything inside the bus from the nuts to the passengers jolted as it pulled itself along the mud road. I was quite sure that I would see one of its tyres rolling down into the Cauvery. Thankfully the exciting ride came to an end safely at Mekedatu.

Sangam

From Sangam, Cauvery flows down further and meanders itself through a deep gorge of hard rocks at Mekedatu. Mekedatu literally translates to 'goat's leap' in Kannada. Legend has it that a goat leapt from one side of the gorge to the other and hence the place got its name. However the gorge is quite a wide one for a goat to reach the other side. The gorge is at its furious best during the monsoons and immediately after that. Since we visited during neither times, all we could see was Cauvery flowing away beautifully through those ravines with small splashes at certain points. During the rains the water level rises up making it all the more beautiful and dangerous. 

Mekedatu

Years of water gushing through them have made the rocks very smooth and seems as if they have been chiseled to look beautiful. There are numerous holes and pits on the rocks which have been formed as a result of the river's fury. The rocks are quite slippery during all times and it is advised not to get down into the waters. The landscape also looked beautiful from the top of the rocks with the flowing Cauvery and verdant greenery in the background. 

After spending a considerable time gazing at the wonderful natural creation and Cauvery's swift flow we got down to the sand bank and headed back to Sangam on the same rickety bus. Mekedatu and Sangam is an exciting day trip from Bangalore if you intend to spend some wonderful time beside the Cauvery.

Signing Note- The gorgeous gorges and the furious Cauvery are a delightful watch...!!

Route- Bangalore- Kanakapura- Mahimenahalli- Sangam- Mekedatu
Distance- 95Kms