Kochi- A Colonial Melting Pot...!!

"If Canton (China) is where you make your money, then Cochin is the place to spend it", said the middle ages Italian traveller, Niccolo de Conti. 

Kochi also known as Cochin has forever seduced travellers and traders and moored them to its shores for ages. This island town that still exhibits glimpses of its glorious past can best be described as a colonial melting pot. Kochi became prominent when a natural port was formed after River Periyar flooded the Muziris port at Kodungallur, north of Kochi in AD 1341. Centuries ago, explorers from world over and foreign invaders landed on this tiny island, a ferry ride away from Ernakulam, its twin city on mainland. The visits by Jews, Chinese and various western travellers when it was a spice trading centre has left a long lasting impression on this now popular port town. The influences of the Portuguese, Dutch and English who occupied the town from as early as the 16th century is evident even today. Be it the narrow lanes, the fishing nets, the cemeteries, the palaces, the churches, the antique shops, the boutique hotels or the umpteen number of cafes, Kochi emanates more foreign flavours than the local ones. This colonial influence has been the impetus in churning out Kochi, aptly named Queen of the Arabian sea, into one of the top travel destinations in the country. 

Venduruthy bridge greets as you leave the mainland to cross the Vembanad lake into Willingdon island that connects Kochi with the mainland. The road then crosses another bridge over the Lakshadweep sea to enter Kochi. Various fragrances hit you as the road winds its way through the bakeries of Thopumpady, the spice markets of Mattancherry and the sea food stalls of Fort Kochi. The enchanting landscape has islands strewn across Vembanad lake, mesmerising backwaters and expansive Lakshadweep sea. Areas in and around Fort Kochi and Mattancherry are collectively referred to as Kochi. There are more tiny islands surrounding Kochi and Willingdon such as Bolghatty and Vypeen which are just a ferry ride away. For the visitors, Kochi offers a plethora of historical places to visit and cultural experiences to soak in-

Delve into Jewish history at the Synagogue-

Pardeshi Synagogue as it is referred to as, stands at the end of the narrow lane that leads to it. The towering clock tower in the background stands testimony to the times and lives of the Jews who have lived here for centuries. Only a few Jewish families remain who haven't made their way to Israel. Built in 1568 by the descendents of Spanish and Dutch Jews , this is the oldest Synagogue in the commonwealth of nations. Its interiors are adorned with Belgian chandeliers, hand painted blue and white Chinese porcelain tiles, Hebrew inscriptions on slabs and Verses from old testament. Remains closed on Fridays and Saturdays. Photography is prohibited inside.

Clock Tower

Hebrew inscriptions

Visit the Dutch Palace-

Gifted by the Portuguese in mid 16th century to the then Raja of Kochi, it is often referred to as Mattancherry palace. It was later renovated by the Dutch after they defeated the Portuguese and hence its name. Presently it is a museum with beautiful murals across its walls. Closed on Fridays. Photography is prohibited insie.

Soak in the architecture of Santa Cruz Basilica-

With a Gothic facade and tall spires, this Basilica built by the Portuguese is an imposing one. The Basilica is well known for its spellbinding interiors and paintings. While the original church at this site which dates to mid 16th century was demolished by the British, the present one was built in the late 19th century.

Walk into St. Francis Church-

Built in early 16th century by the Portuguese, the St. Francis church is believed to be India's oldest European church. Gorgeous gravestones adorn the walls of its insides. The church has undergone several restorations from being a wooden  chapel to what it is now under the rule of Portuguese, Dutch and English.  Vasco da Gama was first buried here and later his remains were shifted to Lisbon.

A moment of silence at the Dutch cemetery- 

Across the small closed gates of the cemetery lies the graves of numerous Dutchmen who were laid to rest almost 300 years ago. Entry is denied and the tombstones amidst the tall grasses can be viewed only from outside the gates.

 Amble along Fort Immanuel-

Though it doesn't offer much to a visitor, Fort Immanuel located very close to the beach is probably the reason why Kochi has a 'Fort' attached to its name. The fortification was done by the Portuguese in early 16th century and demolished by the British later. Only very little of the fort remains presently.

Explore the Portuguese museum-

With a wide display of Portuguese artefacts, this multistory building has a huge collection from various churches of Catholic communities and is a delight for historians. The museum remains closed on Mondays.

Gather information at SNC Maritime museum-

This museum depicts in detail the Indian naval history with numerous maps, plaques, murals and medieval trade routes. Well recommended if one is keen on India's naval evolution and history. The museum remains closed on Mondays.

Help pull up the Chinese Fishing nets-

Located off the Vasco Square, these cantilevered huge fishing nets have become synonymous with Kochi and are locally known as 'Cheenavala'. Introduced in 14th century by travellers from Kublai Khan's court, only a few remain and it requires a few fishermen to pull them up. One can tip them and join in pulling up the nets. Undoubtedly the best place in Kochi to catch the setting sun go down the horizon.

Walk along Fort Kochi Beach and Promenade-

Despite not being a beach where can one work on their tan, it has a nice promenade where one can stroll along in the evenings and enjoy the sunset as the ships pass by and fishermen pull up the Chinese fishing nets. There are a few eateries where one can relish the fresh catches of the day. 

Stroll through the by-lanes-

Fort Kochi is well known for its numerous quaint streets with European names, of which the Princess street in the most well known one. There are numerous shops selling a plethora of interesting things from coffee and spices to antiques at Jew town. Stroll through the alleyways and get lost amidst them. The charming little cafes are where you can read a book on a lazy afternoon as you sip some caffeine. Lined along the streets are the old bright coloured and immaculate Portuguese bungalows in European styled architecture, most of which have been converted into boutique hotels and art galleries. David hall, Vasco house and Koder house are some of the popular ones. 

Experience Kochi Muziris Biennale-

The dilapidated walls and the old warehouses of Kochi turn into a colourful and vibrant place with art displays adorning this island during this art festival. Kochi Muziris biennale is an art exhibition where artists from world over have their works displayed. Various genres of art works, paintings, sculptures, photographs, collateral projects, cultural programs and cinemas are displayed and shown across Kochi's dilapidated warehouses and its surroundings.  Held for the first time in 2012, it is presently in its second edition and brings crowd from all over. It is held once in two years between December and March. You can read more about the same here- Kochi Muziris Biennale.

  
Relish at Kashi Art Cafe-

This is probably the most popular cafe in Kochi and is well known for its delicious cakes, sandwiches and coffee. The art works hanging on its walls adds to its charm. The chocolate cake is a must try.

Gaze at the vistas from Willingdon Island-

Willingdon island is the largest man made island in India and connects the mainland to Fort Kochi and Mattancherry. It once housed the Cochin international airport and presently is home to the southern naval command of Indian Navy. The island has nice little roads, most of which leads to the embarkation point. The views of the mainland across the Vembanad lake from here are quite captivating.

Skyline of the mainland as seen from Willingdon island

Visit Bolghatty Palace-

Located on Mulavukadu island, this KTDC hotel was built by the Dutch in mid 18th century and is the oldest Dutch palace outside Netherlands. Undoubtedly one of the best heritage hotels where one can stay while in Kochi.

Drive to Vypeen and Cherai-

A ferry ride away from Kochi lies the beautiful Vypeen island. The island which is approachable via road too is well known for its lighthouse at Ochanthuruthu. Climb up the light house and it offers panoramic vistas of the sea and surrounding greenery. Hordes of believers throng the Church of our Lady of Hope which they believe has strong powers to fulfill your prayers. The only shortcoming for Kochi as a destination is the lack of a nice beach. Though a short drive away, Cherai beach on Vypeen island is the most sought after one for both the people of Kochi and its visitors. It has been beautified with walkways and is definitely a nice place to spend an evening.You can read more about it here- Cherai beach.

View from lighthouse

Cherai beach

Take a eco tour to Kumbalangi-

Located to the south of Kochi, this fishing hamlet has been transformed into an Eco- tourism village. Initiated by the Kerala tourism, this model rural village gives the visitors an insight into the life of toddy tappers, fishermen, coir making industries and much more. It also helps the locals make a living out of tourism.

Enjoy a ferry ride-

A ferry ride or a jankar ride (where you vehicles can also be boarded) from the mainland to Kochi is a must try experience. Though it was the only mode of transport until a few decades back, it still holds a quaint charm to it. Whiff of the sea breeze, fisher folk on catamarans, lovely skyline of the mainland, floating sea weeds, frolicking sea gulls and the gorgeous Vembanad lake are sure to enchant you en route your visit to Kochi. There are ferry rides to other islands such as Vypeen and Mulavukadu from Kochi and Ernakulam. 

  
Take a break at Ernakulam-

The twin town of Kochi, Ernakulam, a typical modern bustling city lies on the mainland. Take a break from the colonialism of Kochi and wander through the crowded Broadway or M.G.Road, spent an evening strolling though the walkway at marine drive and enjoy a sunset boat ride meandering through the Vembanad lake. There are a couple of interesting museums such as Hill palace museum, Kerala folklore museum and museum of Kerala history for the enthusiastic history buffs. The art gallery at Durbar hall is a great place for art lovers as it very often has art exhibitions.


Where to eat- Kashi art cafe, Tea pot cafe, Pai Dosas, Kayikka's Biriyani, Dhe Puttu

Where to stay- At any of the numerous home stays or heritage hotels in Kochi such as Old Courtyard, Koder House etc.

Where to shop- The streets of Fort Kochi, Jew town, Broadway and M.G.Road

Nearest rail head- Ernakulam (13 Kms)

Nearest airport- Cochin international airport, Nedumbassery (44 Kms)

Best season to visit- October to February

Kodachadri Trek and Hidlumane Falls

Kodachadri conjures up a lot of images right from Mookambika temple to Sarvanjapeetham. But what remained in my mind from my last visit (read here) was the off-roading jeep ride from Mookambika temple with magnificent vistas and the final climb to Sarvanjapeetham where the scholar Sankaracharya once meditated. I had then decided to trek Kodachadri from the base, but it turned a reality only a couple of years later.

When it dawned, the bus with a group of strangers (had enrolled myself with BMC for this trek) from Bangalore was heading past arecanut trees on either sides to the home stay. Most trek routes across the western ghats in Karnataka have a Bhat's house (usually a priest) somewhere close to it and this was no different. Post freshening up and breakfast, we headed to Katinahole, from where trek trail begins. From the asphalted main road, we took the muddy jeep trail that leads to Kodachadri. The muddy track is used by jeeps to ferry pilgrims to Sarvanjapeetham.

It was the onset of summers and the sun was out pretty early. A quick introduction later, we were on the trail following each other, building camaraderie and getting to know the fellow trekkers better. Less than a kilometer later, we took a detour off the jeep track, crossed a stream, went past a few paddy fields and entered the jungle trail. From the muddy wide road, it was a drastic change in the landscape to the narrow jungle trail with bushes, fallen trees and foliage. Sparse canopy allowed sunlight to percolate onto the thick dry foliage which had fallen and covered the pathway. Slowly, the bushy path turned into a forest trail with thick dangling roots and giant tree trunks.Not being thickly vegetated and a couple of short breaks helped us trudge faster along the gradual descent and keep pace with our local guide. Laced with beautiful tall trees, brown fallen leaves and intermittent sunlight, this gorgeous landscape ended with an open vast land with sparse vegetation, distant hills and a house with a small shop in the middle of nowhere.

The first taste of buttermilk which was to be a constant partner through the trek was at this tiny shop. After gulping down a few glasses of the spicy thirst quencher, we walked down onto the ridges of  paddy fields and cut across them to re-enter the forest trail. A small stream flowed alongside us as we went deeper. A while later, what lay ahead of us was a huge rocky terrain with a tiny perennial stream cascading its way to the small pool below and then further down. For a moment I mistook this to be Hidlumane falls, which we were to encounter during the trek. The trek from here was a steep precarious short climb to the right of the huge rock. The narrow path after the rock climb was a short trail that led to Hidlumane falls. The falls wasn't impressive with very little water sprinkling over the rocks covered with green overgrowth and dangling creepers. We climbed over a few boulders to get close to the falls. It did not seem as trickle as we went closer. There was enough water to get under the falls and refresh yourself. Apparently there were a few hooligans enjoying their act under the falls that made me stay away from the same. I happily gazed at the falls and the natural setting from a boulder as the sun rays cut across the frame.

Hidlumane Falls

The climb from the the falls was quite an interesting one. It was a vertical climb where we had to hold on to the bulging roots and pull each other up. This was probably the toughest part of the trek and it led to further jungle trails. It slowly opened out and what lay ahead was a long trail over tall brown grasslands with gorgeous vistas on all sides. For the first time during the trek, we felt the heat beating us down. Vast open grasslands isn't the ideal place to hike at mid noon during the month of March. Respite from the heat came in the form of panoramic views of the brown hills, thick canopy, distant water bodies and a couple of vantage points. The climb was quite steep and the gravel track made the hike an exhausting one. On reaching the top, we could see the the trail meandering its way further, past tiny brown hills onto many more. The long hike finally led to a small shola grassland where the trail ended and we opened our lunch packs. 

Steep climb after the falls.

Gorgeous vistas

Steep climb

Meandering trails

 The packed lunches was gobbled down quickly and washed with loads of buttermilk. It was another long climb to reach the jeep track which we had parted ways with at the beginning of the trek. A look back from the jeep track and we had lovely vistas of the trail we had taken alongside beautiful hills. All frames had the evident brown, while green was minimal. We hiked along the jeep track from there on with magnificent deep valleys and intermittent hills on to the left. The muddy jeep track ended at a guest house which is also the drop off point for jeeps. One needs to climb the last stretch from there even if you hire a jeep.

More buttermilks and refreshments later, we began the final hike to Sarvanjapeetham. Unsurprisingly, there were more pilgrims and buttermilk vendors on this stretch. The path slowly turned into a ridge walk as we trudged carefully amidst fog that wrapped us without a cue. The sun had become milder and there was chillness all around for the first time during the trek. Onto our left were breathtaking views of the valley  which was incessantly covered by fog. It was a sheer drop and the views left us spellbound as we made our way through the fog. This definitely had to be the best stretch of our trek. We climbed higher and the Sarvanjapeetham was visible covered in fog after a while. We had conquered Kodachadri! The small shrine is where scholar Sankaracharya had once meditated.

Valley view

Sarvanjapeetham

The vantage points from the shrine were mind blowing as floating clouds and fog wrapped  the enchanting valley. Despite disruptions by the fog, photography session continued for long. Undoubtedly a delight for landscape photographers. The sun was about to set and we made a quick dash back through the fog to the guest house to gulp more buttermilk. The return trek was along the jeep track throughout and not the trail we had taken during the day. Layered with red mud and stones which kicked up dust every time a jeep crossed us, we trod on them and raced against the setting sun. As the sun set, red became the explicit and prominent colour everywhere, be it the sky or the jeep track. The white fog however, made its presence felt amidst all those redness as we made our quick steps with flashing torch lights. 

The red muddy jeep track

 The last hour was amidst pitch darkness following the person in front with flashing lights. Though the trek seemed never ending in the darkness, a while later we were at the point where we began the trek in the morning. Gulping more buttermilk, we ambled into our bus to head to the home stay after a successful, refreshing and exciting trek. A sumptuous dinner later, we were offered one of the best beds ever- open to sky. How exciting is that? The day long trek had its tiring effect as we succumbed to deep sleep amidst the arecanut trees despite gazillion stars twinkling at us.

The ideal time to trek Kodachadri would be between the months of September and January when the vegetation is lush green and Hidlumane is at its best.

Signing Note- A trek that offers everything to the nature lover- shola grasslands, waterfalls, rock climbs, ridge walks, unending trails and breathtaking vistas...!!

Trek distance- 14 Kms (approx.)- depends on the route you take
Distance- 385 Kms
Route- Bangalore- Tumkur- Tarikere- Shimoga- Arasalu- Hosanagar- Katinahole- Kodachadri

Shivanasamudra- Gaganachukki Falls

Asia's first hydro electric power station at Shivanasamudra is a popular getaway from Bangalore. Shivanasamudra is well known for its twin waterfalls- Gaganachukki and Barachukki, both separated by a few kilometers. Gaganachukki has multiple falls as Cauvery winds its way through the numerous rocks and cascades into the pool below. With numerous falls, it resembles a miniature version of Hoganekkal falls in Dharmapuri. The white waters, the rocks and the lush greenery creates an enchanting landscape. The well paved steps leads to a viewpoint which offers brilliant vistas of the gorgeous falls. Dargah Hazrath Mardane Gaib near Gaganachukki falls is another attraction at Shivanasamudra. The place is quite crowded during the weekends and there are numerous vendors selling various thirst quenchers. Beware of the mischievous monkeys who can snatch your belongings.

Gaganachukki falls

Gaganachukki falls

Barachukki, located a few kilometers away from Gaganachukki is the other twin which makes Shivanasamudra a river island. Unlike Gaganachukki, one can reach the base of Barachukki by hiring a coracle. Monsoon or post monsoon is the best time to visit these twin falls.

Route- Bengaluru- Kanakapura- Malvalli- Shivanasamudra
Distance- 138 Kms

Irpu Falls- Tumbling Over Boulders...!!

I contemplated my visit to Irpu falls as I browsed through the web, speculating the volume of water in the month of December. Could not gather much information, but the photographs that Google threw up made me decide. I was going. Located very close to the Kerala- Karnataka border, Irpu falls under the Brahmagiri wildlife sanctuary in Coorg district. Also referred to as Lakshmnana theertha falls, this 52 meter high thundering falls is a tributary of  Cauvery and has a very popular Shiva shrine near by.

Driving through the green and serene Rajiv Gandhi national park (Nagarhole forest) was a delight. The engulfing silence was broken when a few dholes (wild dogs) crossed my path.They loitered around for a while, posed for my camera and trudged back into the dense forest. Dholes hunt in packs and are commonly see in Nagarhole and Bandipur national parks. Herds of deer gave company throughout the drive and so did a couple of langurs.The long drive through the forest ended when coffee estates propped up everywhere. While in Coorg, coffee is ubiquitous. Crossed the border town of Kuta and a detour off the main road led to the base of Irpu falls. The place gets quite crowded during the weekends.

Dholes in Nagarhole national park

The spread out Brahmagiri range stood before me, intimidating everything else in its vicinity. A small forest trail from the base of the hills, climbs its way through the thick foliage. The splashing waters were quite audible even at the start of the trail. That was a relief and my speculations were put to rest. As I climbed the steps, 'Papilio Buddhas' (Malabar  Banded Peacock) welcomed me. Endemic to the western ghats, these colourful butterflies could be seen fluttering everywhere but were quite tough to capture on my lens. The climb ended in less than 10 minutes and the gorgeous Irpu surfaced, amidst the boulders and greenery.

The water volumes though not impressive from a distance, looked beautiful as I walked closer to it. The cascading falls was a delight as its splashed itself on to the big boulders and sprayed all over as it made its way down through the forest. The protruding boulders on the sides are a great place to climb over and watch the falls. The slippery, moss laden rocks encapsulating the falls looked equally beautiful and made a gorgeous setting. Papilio Buddhas and the sun's rays made some brilliant colours as both cut across and fluttered all over the lovely Irpu. There were a couple of small pools near the base which enticed most visitors to sit by the rocks and dip their feet into the cold waters. Being a weekend, the place was quite crowded and people happily made their way to the falls to cool themselves on a warm afternoon.

It is permitted to get close to the falls and go beneath it only post the rains (after October). Irpu has a completely different character during the monsoons. It is impossible to get anywhere near the falls  and the boulders are hardly visible as the majestic falls is at its fiercest best then with humungous volumes of water. The view point, somewhere midway on the climb, is the best place to witness the falls between June and September. I wasn't disappointed as I had expected an even worse scenario with just a trickle of water. However, a visit during the rains is definitely recommended to witness the majestic Irpu. It is also possible to trek further up, but requires permission and is possible only with a forest guide.

Signing Note- A gorgeous ambiance amidst the verdant greenery...!!

Route- Bangalore- Mandya- Srirangapatna- Hunsur- Nagarhole national park- Kuta- Irpu falls
Distance- 245 Kms

Thamarassery Ghats...!!

Thamarassery Ghats snaking its way through the green canopy and tea gardens of Western Ghats on a cold misty morning. Kozhikode, December 2014.

Wishing all my readers a Happy New Year. May you travel to all those far flung exotic destinations in 2015!

Desolate...!!

The lush greenery, the flowing Cauvery and the hazy hills in the background made for a wonderful landscape. However, what caught my attention was the desolate structure amidst the greens. 

Karnataka countryside. November 2014.

Talakad- Land of Submerged Temples...!!

Covered in heaps of sand, an old town lies beneath, waiting to be re-discovered. This is Talakad for you! A prominent town which was once ruled by various empires (Gangas, Cholas, Hoysalas, Vijayanagaras and Wodeyars) from the 8th to the 17th century, Talakad portrays only a part of what it once was. It resembles a desert with beautiful temples amidst the sands. Located by the Cauvery, a detour off the NH- 209 takes you to this popular pilgrim centre, where ASI is still excavating and unearthing temples.

Legend says this land was cursed by Alamelamma, queen of Ranga Raya of Vijayanagar empire, the ruler of Srirangapatana during early 17th century. Ranga Raya who was on a visit to Vaidyanatheshwara temple in Talakad suffered critical health conditions and was on his death bed. Hearing this, Alamelamma left for Talakad handing over the reigns of the kingdom to Raja Wodeyar of Mysore. Raja Wodeyar who was desirous of the jewels possessed by the queen, attacked Talakad sighting the opportunity. Gauging the situation she was in, Alamelamma threw the jewels into the Cauvery and drowned herself in the waters at Malangi. She cursed the land and the Wodeyar family before killing herself- "Talakadu Maralagi, Malangi Maduvagi, Mysuru dhorege makkalagade hōgali" (Translates to- May Talakadu be filled with sand, Malangi be a whirlpool and Mysore Kings shall not have offspring). The curse still holds good as Talakad is always covered in sand and the Wodeyars have never had rightful heirs ever since.

The popular temples in Talakad are Vaidyanatheshwara, Pataleshwara, Maruleshwara, Arakeshwara, and Mallikarjuna. All have Shiva as their deity and is known for its Pancha Linga Drashana which is held once in 12 years. Keerthi Narayana temple which is still under excavation and is rebuilt as per its earlier architecture by ASI has a Vishnu shrine. It is believed that there are about 30 temples beneath those huge heaps of sand waiting to be discovered.

As soon as I got out of my vehicle, authorised guides approached to show me around. Ignored them and went ahead, languorously over the heaps of sand to the once submerged temples of Talakad. Shelters along the walkway is a respite from the burning sun. Talakad gets quite hot during the day and it becomes tough to manoeuver yourself through the sand. One has to walk down the stone cut steps to Pataleshwara and Maruleshwara, the oldest of the temples, both found after extensive excavation. Though small, it gave goosebumps to take blessings at a shrine that was buried in sand not too long ago. One can see the beautifully sculptured Keerthi Narayana temple way down, as you walk along the pathway. The walk further led to Choudeshwri temple and culminated at a temple pond.

Pataleshwara temple

 From the pond I walked across to the most popular temple of Talakad, Vaidyanatheshwara which was never totally submerged in sand. This is the largest of all temples in Talakad, was built during the Ganga, Chola and Hoysala eras and is well known for its wonderful architecture and sculptures. Its intricately carved entrance and wall sculptures display in detail the Dravidian architecture. I lazed around the temple, gazing at the wonderful stone-works and craftsmanship. The huge 'Dwarapalakas' (guards) at the entrance of the inner sanctum, nicely carved pillars and the delicately hanging stone chain from a corner of the roof left me amazed.

Vaidyanatheshwara temple

Keerthi Narayana temple, behind the Vaidyanatheshwara temple is still under excavation and restoration. This Vishnu shrine built in Hoysala architecture is being rebuilt meticulously by the ASI post the excavation. Built in the 12th century, the temple has an impressively sculptured entrance gate. I wasn't allowed inside as the restoration work was under progress and had to be content with the views of the wonderful architecture from a distance. The remaining two temples, Arakeshwara and Mallikarjuna are within a radius of 8 kms.

Entrance gate at Keerthi Narayana temple

Keerthi Narayana temple

All these gorgeously sculptured temples display the reminiscence of a bygone era and also flashes a glimpse into the world beneath the sands. An ideal way to end the visit would be to take a coracle ride on the Cauvery which flows peacefully alongside Talakad.

Signing Note- Stroll through a world of sands and sculptures...!!

Distance- 135 Kms
Bengaluru- Kanakapura- Halagur- Malavalli- Talakad