Kodachadri Trek and Hidlumane Falls

Kodachadri conjures up a lot of images right from Mookambika temple to Sarvanjapeetham. But what remained in my mind from my last visit (read here) was the off-roading jeep ride from Mookambika temple with magnificent vistas and the final climb to Sarvanjapeetham where the scholar Sankaracharya once meditated. I had then decided to trek Kodachadri from the base, but it turned a reality only a couple of years later.

When it dawned, the bus with a group of strangers (had enrolled myself with BMC for this trek) from Bangalore was heading past arecanut trees on either sides to the home stay. Most trek routes across the western ghats in Karnataka have a Bhat's house (usually a priest) somewhere close to it and this was no different. Post freshening up and breakfast, we headed to Katinahole, from where trek trail begins. From the asphalted main road, we took the muddy jeep trail that leads to Kodachadri. The muddy track is used by jeeps to ferry pilgrims to Sarvanjapeetham.

It was the onset of summers and the sun was out pretty early. A quick introduction later, we were on the trail following each other, building camaraderie and getting to know the fellow trekkers better. Less than a kilometer later, we took a detour off the jeep track, crossed a stream, went past a few paddy fields and entered the jungle trail. From the muddy wide road, it was a drastic change in the landscape to the narrow jungle trail with bushes, fallen trees and foliage. Sparse canopy allowed sunlight to percolate onto the thick dry foliage which had fallen and covered the pathway. Slowly, the bushy path turned into a forest trail with thick dangling roots and giant tree trunks.Not being thickly vegetated and a couple of short breaks helped us trudge faster along the gradual descent and keep pace with our local guide. Laced with beautiful tall trees, brown fallen leaves and intermittent sunlight, this gorgeous landscape ended with an open vast land with sparse vegetation, distant hills and a house with a small shop in the middle of nowhere.

The first taste of buttermilk which was to be a constant partner through the trek was at this tiny shop. After gulping down a few glasses of the spicy thirst quencher, we walked down onto the ridges of  paddy fields and cut across them to re-enter the forest trail. A small stream flowed alongside us as we went deeper. A while later, what lay ahead of us was a huge rocky terrain with a tiny perennial stream cascading its way to the small pool below and then further down. For a moment I mistook this to be Hidlumane falls, which we were to encounter during the trek. The trek from here was a steep precarious short climb to the right of the huge rock. The narrow path after the rock climb was a short trail that led to Hidlumane falls. The falls wasn't impressive with very little water sprinkling over the rocks covered with green overgrowth and dangling creepers. We climbed over a few boulders to get close to the falls. It did not seem as trickle as we went closer. There was enough water to get under the falls and refresh yourself. Apparently there were a few hooligans enjoying their act under the falls that made me stay away from the same. I happily gazed at the falls and the natural setting from a boulder as the sun rays cut across the frame.

Hidlumane Falls

The climb from the the falls was quite an interesting one. It was a vertical climb where we had to hold on to the bulging roots and pull each other up. This was probably the toughest part of the trek and it led to further jungle trails. It slowly opened out and what lay ahead was a long trail over tall brown grasslands with gorgeous vistas on all sides. For the first time during the trek, we felt the heat beating us down. Vast open grasslands isn't the ideal place to hike at mid noon during the month of March. Respite from the heat came in the form of panoramic views of the brown hills, thick canopy, distant water bodies and a couple of vantage points. The climb was quite steep and the gravel track made the hike an exhausting one. On reaching the top, we could see the the trail meandering its way further, past tiny brown hills onto many more. The long hike finally led to a small shola grassland where the trail ended and we opened our lunch packs. 

Steep climb after the falls.

Gorgeous vistas

Steep climb

Meandering trails

 The packed lunches was gobbled down quickly and washed with loads of buttermilk. It was another long climb to reach the jeep track which we had parted ways with at the beginning of the trek. A look back from the jeep track and we had lovely vistas of the trail we had taken alongside beautiful hills. All frames had the evident brown, while green was minimal. We hiked along the jeep track from there on with magnificent deep valleys and intermittent hills on to the left. The muddy jeep track ended at a guest house which is also the drop off point for jeeps. One needs to climb the last stretch from there even if you hire a jeep.

More buttermilks and refreshments later, we began the final hike to Sarvanjapeetham. Unsurprisingly, there were more pilgrims and buttermilk vendors on this stretch. The path slowly turned into a ridge walk as we trudged carefully amidst fog that wrapped us without a cue. The sun had become milder and there was chillness all around for the first time during the trek. Onto our left were breathtaking views of the valley  which was incessantly covered by fog. It was a sheer drop and the views left us spellbound as we made our way through the fog. This definitely had to be the best stretch of our trek. We climbed higher and the Sarvanjapeetham was visible covered in fog after a while. We had conquered Kodachadri! The small shrine is where scholar Sankaracharya had once meditated.

Valley view

Sarvanjapeetham

The vantage points from the shrine were mind blowing as floating clouds and fog wrapped  the enchanting valley. Despite disruptions by the fog, photography session continued for long. Undoubtedly a delight for landscape photographers. The sun was about to set and we made a quick dash back through the fog to the guest house to gulp more buttermilk. The return trek was along the jeep track throughout and not the trail we had taken during the day. Layered with red mud and stones which kicked up dust every time a jeep crossed us, we trod on them and raced against the setting sun. As the sun set, red became the explicit and prominent colour everywhere, be it the sky or the jeep track. The white fog however, made its presence felt amidst all those redness as we made our quick steps with flashing torch lights. 

The red muddy jeep track

 The last hour was amidst pitch darkness following the person in front with flashing lights. Though the trek seemed never ending in the darkness, a while later we were at the point where we began the trek in the morning. Gulping more buttermilk, we ambled into our bus to head to the home stay after a successful, refreshing and exciting trek. A sumptuous dinner later, we were offered one of the best beds ever- open to sky. How exciting is that? The day long trek had its tiring effect as we succumbed to deep sleep amidst the arecanut trees despite gazillion stars twinkling at us.

The ideal time to trek Kodachadri would be between the months of September and January when the vegetation is lush green and Hidlumane is at its best.

Signing Note- A trek that offers everything to the nature lover- shola grasslands, waterfalls, rock climbs, ridge walks, unending trails and breathtaking vistas...!!

Trek distance- 14 Kms (approx.)- depends on the route you take
Distance- 385 Kms
Route- Bangalore- Tumkur- Tarikere- Shimoga- Arasalu- Hosanagar- Katinahole- Kodachadri

Shivanasamudra- Gaganachukki Falls

Asia's first hydro electric power station at Shivanasamudra is a popular getaway from Bangalore. Shivanasamudra is well known for its twin waterfalls- Gaganachukki and Barachukki, both separated by a few kilometers. Gaganachukki has multiple falls as Cauvery winds its way through the numerous rocks and cascades into the pool below. With numerous falls, it resembles a miniature version of Hoganekkal falls in Dharmapuri. The white waters, the rocks and the lush greenery creates an enchanting landscape. The well paved steps leads to a viewpoint which offers brilliant vistas of the gorgeous falls. Dargah Hazrath Mardane Gaib near Gaganachukki falls is another attraction at Shivanasamudra. The place is quite crowded during the weekends and there are numerous vendors selling various thirst quenchers. Beware of the mischievous monkeys who can snatch your belongings.

Gaganachukki falls

Gaganachukki falls

Barachukki, located a few kilometers away from Gaganachukki is the other twin which makes Shivanasamudra a river island. Unlike Gaganachukki, one can reach the base of Barachukki by hiring a coracle. Monsoon or post monsoon is the best time to visit these twin falls.

Route- Bengaluru- Kanakapura- Malvalli- Shivanasamudra
Distance- 138 Kms

Irpu Falls- Tumbling Over Boulders...!!

I contemplated my visit to Irpu falls as I browsed through the web, speculating the volume of water in the month of December. Could not gather much information, but the photographs that Google threw up made me decide. I was going. Located very close to the Kerala- Karnataka border, Irpu falls under the Brahmagiri wildlife sanctuary in Coorg district. Also referred to as Lakshmnana theertha falls, this 52 meter high thundering falls is a tributary of  Cauvery and has a very popular Shiva shrine near by.

Driving through the green and serene Rajiv Gandhi national park (Nagarhole forest) was a delight. The engulfing silence was broken when a few dholes (wild dogs) crossed my path.They loitered around for a while, posed for my camera and trudged back into the dense forest. Dholes hunt in packs and are commonly see in Nagarhole and Bandipur national parks. Herds of deer gave company throughout the drive and so did a couple of langurs.The long drive through the forest ended when coffee estates propped up everywhere. While in Coorg, coffee is ubiquitous. Crossed the border town of Kuta and a detour off the main road led to the base of Irpu falls. The place gets quite crowded during the weekends.

Dholes in Nagarhole national park

The spread out Brahmagiri range stood before me, intimidating everything else in its vicinity. A small forest trail from the base of the hills, climbs its way through the thick foliage. The splashing waters were quite audible even at the start of the trail. That was a relief and my speculations were put to rest. As I climbed the steps, 'Papilio Buddhas' (Malabar  Banded Peacock) welcomed me. Endemic to the western ghats, these colourful butterflies could be seen fluttering everywhere but were quite tough to capture on my lens. The climb ended in less than 10 minutes and the gorgeous Irpu surfaced, amidst the boulders and greenery.

The water volumes though not impressive from a distance, looked beautiful as I walked closer to it. The cascading falls was a delight as its splashed itself on to the big boulders and sprayed all over as it made its way down through the forest. The protruding boulders on the sides are a great place to climb over and watch the falls. The slippery, moss laden rocks encapsulating the falls looked equally beautiful and made a gorgeous setting. Papilio Buddhas and the sun's rays made some brilliant colours as both cut across and fluttered all over the lovely Irpu. There were a couple of small pools near the base which enticed most visitors to sit by the rocks and dip their feet into the cold waters. Being a weekend, the place was quite crowded and people happily made their way to the falls to cool themselves on a warm afternoon.

It is permitted to get close to the falls and go beneath it only post the rains (after October). Irpu has a completely different character during the monsoons. It is impossible to get anywhere near the falls  and the boulders are hardly visible as the majestic falls is at its fiercest best then with humungous volumes of water. The view point, somewhere midway on the climb, is the best place to witness the falls between June and September. I wasn't disappointed as I had expected an even worse scenario with just a trickle of water. However, a visit during the rains is definitely recommended to witness the majestic Irpu. It is also possible to trek further up, but requires permission and is possible only with a forest guide.

Signing Note- A gorgeous ambiance amidst the verdant greenery...!!

Route- Bangalore- Mandya- Srirangapatna- Hunsur- Nagarhole national park- Kuta- Irpu falls
Distance- 245 Kms

Thamarassery Ghats...!!

Thamarassery Ghats snaking its way through the green canopy and tea gardens of Western Ghats on a cold misty morning. Kozhikode, December 2014.

Wishing all my readers a Happy New Year. May you travel to all those far flung exotic destinations in 2015!

Desolate...!!

The lush greenery, the flowing Cauvery and the hazy hills in the background made for a wonderful landscape. However, what caught my attention was the desolate structure amidst the greens. 

Karnataka countryside. November 2014.

Talakad- Land of Submerged Temples...!!

Covered in heaps of sand, an old town lies beneath, waiting to be re-discovered. This is Talakad for you! A prominent town which was once ruled by various empires (Gangas, Cholas, Hoysalas, Vijayanagaras and Wodeyars) from the 8th to the 17th century, Talakad portrays only a part of what it once was. It resembles a desert with beautiful temples amidst the sands. Located by the Cauvery, a detour off the NH- 209 takes you to this popular pilgrim centre, where ASI is still excavating and unearthing temples.

Legend says this land was cursed by Alamelamma, queen of Ranga Raya of Vijayanagar empire, the ruler of Srirangapatana during early 17th century. Ranga Raya who was on a visit to Vaidyanatheshwara temple in Talakad suffered critical health conditions and was on his death bed. Hearing this, Alamelamma left for Talakad handing over the reigns of the kingdom to Raja Wodeyar of Mysore. Raja Wodeyar who was desirous of the jewels possessed by the queen, attacked Talakad sighting the opportunity. Gauging the situation she was in, Alamelamma threw the jewels into the Cauvery and drowned herself in the waters at Malangi. She cursed the land and the Wodeyar family before killing herself- "Talakadu Maralagi, Malangi Maduvagi, Mysuru dhorege makkalagade hōgali" (Translates to- May Talakadu be filled with sand, Malangi be a whirlpool and Mysore Kings shall not have offspring). The curse still holds good as Talakad is always covered in sand and the Wodeyars have never had rightful heirs ever since.

The popular temples in Talakad are Vaidyanatheshwara, Pataleshwara, Maruleshwara, Arakeshwara, and Mallikarjuna. All have Shiva as their deity and is known for its Pancha Linga Drashana which is held once in 12 years. Keerthi Narayana temple which is still under excavation and is rebuilt as per its earlier architecture by ASI has a Vishnu shrine. It is believed that there are about 30 temples beneath those huge heaps of sand waiting to be discovered.

As soon as I got out of my vehicle, authorised guides approached to show me around. Ignored them and went ahead, languorously over the heaps of sand to the once submerged temples of Talakad. Shelters along the walkway is a respite from the burning sun. Talakad gets quite hot during the day and it becomes tough to manoeuver yourself through the sand. One has to walk down the stone cut steps to Pataleshwara and Maruleshwara, the oldest of the temples, both found after extensive excavation. Though small, it gave goosebumps to take blessings at a shrine that was buried in sand not too long ago. One can see the beautifully sculptured Keerthi Narayana temple way down, as you walk along the pathway. The walk further led to Choudeshwri temple and culminated at a temple pond.

Pataleshwara temple

 From the pond I walked across to the most popular temple of Talakad, Vaidyanatheshwara which was never totally submerged in sand. This is the largest of all temples in Talakad, was built during the Ganga, Chola and Hoysala eras and is well known for its wonderful architecture and sculptures. Its intricately carved entrance and wall sculptures display in detail the Dravidian architecture. I lazed around the temple, gazing at the wonderful stone-works and craftsmanship. The huge 'Dwarapalakas' (guards) at the entrance of the inner sanctum, nicely carved pillars and the delicately hanging stone chain from a corner of the roof left me amazed.

Vaidyanatheshwara temple

Keerthi Narayana temple, behind the Vaidyanatheshwara temple is still under excavation and restoration. This Vishnu shrine built in Hoysala architecture is being rebuilt meticulously by the ASI post the excavation. Built in the 12th century, the temple has an impressively sculptured entrance gate. I wasn't allowed inside as the restoration work was under progress and had to be content with the views of the wonderful architecture from a distance. The remaining two temples, Arakeshwara and Mallikarjuna are within a radius of 8 kms.

Entrance gate at Keerthi Narayana temple

Keerthi Narayana temple

All these gorgeously sculptured temples display the reminiscence of a bygone era and also flashes a glimpse into the world beneath the sands. An ideal way to end the visit would be to take a coracle ride on the Cauvery which flows peacefully alongside Talakad.

Signing Note- Stroll through a world of sands and sculptures...!!

Distance- 135 Kms
Bengaluru- Kanakapura- Halagur- Malavalli- Talakad

Bali- Places to Visit and Things to Do...!!

The tiny island of Bali sprouts out of the azure colours of the Bali sea bringing together a unique blend of exotic culture, wonderful architecture, beautiful landscapes, friendly people and delicious food. Here is the list of interesting places to visit and activities to enjoy while in Bali.

Kuta/ Legian- This is the heart of Bali with a beautiful beach and a vibrant main street which is lined with shops, art galleries, massage centres, pubs, restaurants and hotels. The electric night life and a plethora of pubs and restaurants to choose from, makes this street one of the top places to visit in Bali. Kuta beach, though devoid of shacks (beer is available) is a great place to spend the evenings as the sun creates a splash of colours. It usually gets crowded during the weekends.

Ubud- The art capital of Bali has slowly become as popular as Kuta and attracts hordes of travellers. The numerous art galleries, art streets and a wide range of shops with excellent display of art and wood works is a haven for culture vultures. Ideally, Ubud is the best place to buy a souvenir to take back home. Ubud palace is also quite popular and is well recommended. The step terraced paddy fields in the outskirts of this alluring little town is another big attraction. The lush green fields makes for a serene landscape.

Tegal lalang- Tegal Lalang is known for its terraced paddy fields which offers beautiful vistas as one sits by the many coffee shops that overlook the landscape. Gaze over the beautiful fields in oblivion as you sip your Balinese coffee.

Kintamani- The small hill town of Kintamani is a pleasant surprise from the balmy beaches of Bali. Tucked away from the crowds of Kuta and Ubud, Kintamani has a cool climate, offers spectacular vistas all around and is an ideal place to stroll around doing absolutely nothing. Enjoy an afternoon at any of the numerous restaurants that offer delicious food and magnificent views.

Lake Batur and Mount Batur- Both the lake (the largest crater lake in Bali) and the mountain are best seen from the hill town of Kintamani. The expansive vistas of both are a delight to watch from the view points of Kintamani. However, it is an enthralling experience to trek Mount Batur- an active volcano, to witness the spectacular sunrise from its summit. There are numerous trekking and adventure companies that organize the sunrise trek and this is a must do activity while in Bali.

Beratan lake and Ulun Dhanu temple- This pristine lake situated in northern Bali has mesmerizing panoramic vistas all around with magnificent mountains in the backdrop and serene surroundings. The climate is quite pleasant throughout the year and the beautiful Ulun Dhanu temple with an interesting architecture by the lake adds to its charm. The temple does seem like its floating on the lake when seen from a distance.

Tanah Lot- This is one of the most spectacular temples in Bali. Located on a rock in the sea, this temple can be visited only when the tide is low as it is a precarious walk over a few rocks to this lovely temple off the main land. It is well known for its spectacular sunsets and the myriad colours that appear over the evening sky. It gets quite crowded during the evening.

Uluwatu temple- Though the temple is small and one has to walk through a small monkey forest, the breathtaking vistas from here can leave you spellbound for a while. The temple is located on a cliff which has a sheer 100 meter drop and the clear azure waters way below and the never ending horizon are a delight to watch.

Besakih temple- Besakih temple is the most important and mother of all Hindu temples in Bali. With Mount Agung as its backdrop, this beautiful temple complex has many uniquely built temples amidst a serene setting. 

Thirtha Empul temple- Also known as Tampak Siring temple as it is located in the village by the same name, it is well known for its holy spring water and is considered sacred by most Balinese to take a dip in its holy pool. There are a couple of shrines and most visitors give offerings here.

Taman Ayun temple- This is the royal temple of the Mengwi dynasty and is a popular attraction in Bali. Interesting roof structures blended with Balinese architecture makes this a very attractive temple. The temple also has a surrounding green garden area with fish ponds.

Goa Gajah- Goa Gajah which translates to Elephant cave is a popular cave temple with a beautiful entrance. The attractive entrance to the cave has numerous carvings of various mythological figures and animals. There is also a holy pool next to the cave and a large garden nearby.

Goa Lawah- This bat cave is an important shrine in Bali and a popular place of interest. The cave also acts as a dwelling for thousands of bats and hence the name Goa Lawah (bat cave).

Thirtha Ganga- This beautifully maintained lush garden has numerous ponds and fountains. There is also a wellness spring which many locals consider as sacred. The beautiful natural setting makes this a very popular tourist attraction.

Nusa Dua- Lined with numerous beach resorts, Nusa Dua is a well known tourist spot in Bali. There are many long white sandy beaches such as Greger beach, Blue point beach and Pandawa beach. Apart from being quite safe for swimming, the beaches are also well known for its water sport activities.

Seminyak- If you are keen on luxury shopping, spas, boutiques and bars, Seminyak is the place to head to. Located further north of Legian, Seminyak is well known for its high end accommodations and restaurants. The beach here is quite serene and beautiful.

Jimbaran- Jimbaran is one of the popular beaches in Bali and has numerous beach shacks lined up along its shoreline. The beach is serene, less crowded and offers a wide range of sea food to choose from. Being located close to the airport, you can watch various kinds of air crafts land and take off every other minute as you sip your chilled beer in the scorching sun. 

Sanur- Located along the eastern coast, the beach at Sanur is less crowded, has numerous open air restaurants and water sport facilities. It is serene and offers wonderful vistas of the blue sea and the distant hills. Definitely one of the best beaches on the island.

Lovina beach- Lovina beach is one of the most popular beaches in north Bali. The biggest attraction here is the dolphin watching tour. Numerous dolphins can be seen not very far from the shores of Lovina. There are also many accommodation options, restaurants, bars, art shops and water sport activities here.

Gitgit Waterfalls- Located amidst tropical trees and thick vegetation, Gitgit waterfalls at a height of 35 meters is one of the most beautiful falls in Bali. Water gushing through the green surroundings at an enormous pace is a delight to watch.

Monkey forest- Bali has a couple of monkey forests, which are infested with notorious monkeys, who, if not careful are sure to run away with your belongings. Alas Kedaton near Taman Ayun temple and the Monkey forest in Ubud are the most popular ones.

Kecak and fire dance- This interesting and old ritual dance is not accompanied by any orchestra but by a choir of more than 60 people. The dancers are in a state of trance and communicate with deities and ancestors. A portion of the epic Ramayana is included into this and is played daily at Uluwatu temple during sunset. Make sure to reach early to grab the best spot to view this dance.

Barong and Keris dance- This is a play which enacts the the eternal fight between the good spirit (Barong- a mythological animal) and the evil spirit (Rangda- a mythological monster). Jambe Budaya in Batubulan is the best place to enjoy this wonderful play.

Celuk- Celuk is well known for its silver wares and visitors can enjoy guided tours and are briefed about the creations. They also have a huge display of various silver wares to choose from to add to the list of souvenirs. 

Mas- This tiny town is known for its wood works where one can visit the carving workshops and see the artists in action along with the numerous wood work displays.

Nasi Goreng- This fried rice is the most popular dish, not just in Bali, but across Indonesia and is a must try. Along with rice, it also has eggs, chicken and prawns. Delicious and filling, it is not without a reason that it is known as the national dish of Indonesia.

Kopi Luwak- This is supposedly the world's most expensive coffee and is made from the droppings of wild civet cats, who hog on coffee berries. They are available at most cafe shops and is well recommended.

Bintang beer- This is the most widely available and most popular beer across Bali. Interestingly, this lager beer is easily available on Kuta beach, despite the beach being devoid of shacks.


You can read more about Bali here- http://www.talesofanomad.com/2014/05/bali-blissfully-beautiful.html

The Photographer's Pose...!!

I find it quite amusing, but isn't this half squat pose quite popular among East Asian tourists?

 

Ellora Caves, Maharashtra. October 2013.