Mandu: Lost in Time

Dilapidated structures narrated numerous stories of kings and queens, lush green landscape looked picturesque, lakes shimmered during the day, tall baobab trees induced the feel of a far away land and the fort walls took me deep into history. That’s Mandu, which has been hailed by many as one of the most romantic destinations in India. I do adhere to that statement as Mandu seems like lost in time and reeks of nostalgia. It’s a place one would want to go back and stroll through again and again. Teeming with architecture, Mandu come alive during the monsoon, which is an ideal time to visit. The pale coloured decrepit monuments against the backdrop of verdant greenery and voluptuous water bodies paint a mesmerising frame when it rains in Mandu. Mughal king Jehangir summed up Mandu in the best possible way- “I have never seen a place that has such a pleasant climate and attractive scenery as Mandu in the rainy season”.

Mandu is spread over a flat hilltop in Madhya Pradesh, a few hours’ drive away from Bhopal. Overlooking the Malwa plateau and Nimar plains, Mandu lies cosily nestled in the Vindhya ranges at a height of more than 2000 feet above sea level. Though inscriptions state that Mandu existed as early as the 6^th century, the town flourished under the Parmar kings in the 8^th century. It changed many hands later and was ruled by Gurjar kings, Khilji dynasty and Mughals. More fortifications and structures were built during these years. While a few structures still stand tall and intimidating, most of them are in a crumbling state. Mandu is also known for its legendary love story between Rani Rupmati and Sultan Baz Bahadur. The monuments have been segregated as Royal enclave, Village group, Sagar talao group and Rewa kund group.

The road that leads up to Mandu meanders through a couple of large fort entrances offering a glimpse of the architectural ruins that lie ahead. While most of the fort walls have crumbled over the years, a few entrance gates still stand tall and intimidating. Delhi gate is the grandest of the lot with its beautiful arched entrance. Bhangi Darwaza, Alamgir Darwaza and Kamani Darwaza are some of the other fort entrance gates. Baobab trees which are native to Africa and rare in India are found across Mandu. Baobab trees are popular for their weird shapes as they resemble an inverted tree with its bloated trunk and scrawny branches. The fruit it bears is known as Mandu ki imli (Mandu’s tamarind), and are pretty large in size.

Delhi Gate

Kamani Darwaza

Baobab trees

Rewa Kund group is known for Roopmati pavilion, which stands atop a hillock overlooking the Nimar plains. The love story of Rani Roopmati and Baz Bahadur is legendary in Mandu. Roopmati was a shepherdess who was in love with Sultan Baz Bahadur and they got married. She became the queen of Malwa after her marriage. Roopmati’s pavilion was built by Baz Bahdur so that Roopmati could have a view of the river Narmada. However, the love story had a tragic end as Roopmati was abandoned by Baz Bahadur when he was attacked by Akbar’s general. Baz Bahadur died in the battle and Roopmati consumed powdered diamonds to poison herself to death. The pavilion has a nice walkway with carvings on one chatri (umbrella shaped covering), and has numerous carved arches beneath it. Views from the pavilion and chatris are gorgeous with the expansive valley of lush greenery sprawling way below. Amidst the greenery lies the palace of Baz Bahadur, with a lovely garden surrounding it. The palace was built in early 16^th century and Baz Bahadur took a liking for it because of its proximity to Roopmati pavilion. The palace has numerous arched pillars, large entrance doors, courtyards and a small pond in the centre. Adjacent to Baz Bahadur palace is the serene Rewa kund, a sacred pool.

Roopmati Pavilion

Baz Bahadur palace

Rewa Kund

Sagar Talao which is the largest water body in Mandu looks gorgeous during sunsets and in the monsoon season when clouds float low above the serene lake. Apart from the local fishermen who are often seen fishing here in the morning and evening, the lake is also home to birds such as storks.

Sagar Talao

The water also lends its name to the group of monuments near it. Most of the structures in the Sagar Talao group are in a dilapidated state and some even have creepers all over them. Dai Ka Mahal which translates to wet nurse’s palace has lost most of its structure over the years. However, the red stoned structure still has a few arches remaining. There is a tomb nearby which is on a raised platform. Though worn out, the interiors of the tomb still look attractive. Dai Ki Choti Behan Ka Mahal which is similar to Dai Ki Mahal is in a crumbling state, but has a few arches which give a glimpse of how beautiful the structure was in its prime. Carvan Sarai located nearby was built in mid 15^th century and is a large inn with a huge courtyard. Malik Mughith’s mosque might have very little left of its original structure, but its beautiful arches, turrets, corridors, intricate carvings and designs are beautiful, and one can easily envisage the gorgeous structure from the 15^th century.

Dai ki Mahal

Tomb near Dai ki Mahal

Dai ki Choti Behan ka Mahal

Dai ki Choti Behan ka Mahal

Malik Mughith's mosque

Beyond the lake and the tall Baobab trees lies Nilakantha palace, home to a Shiva shrine built by a governor of Mughal emperor, Akbar. Chor Kot enroute Nilkantha palace is a small fort which is in shambles and was occupied by thieves in earlier times. Near Chor Kot lies a tomb and a mosque built from red stone with domes and arched entrance doors. Ek Khambha Mahal is another nice tomb located nearby which too has domes and arched entrances. Chappan Mahal, a short distance away has now been converted into a museum. Darya Khan’s mosque is known for its numerous arches and is a popular attraction in Mandu. Darya Khan’s tomb next to the mosque has beautiful works and carvings on it. Sarai Kothari, Roja Ka Maqbara and Somvati Kund are some of the other structures nearby.

Nilkantha palace

Tomb and mosque near Chor Kot

Ek Khamba mahal

Chappan mahal

Darya Khan's tomb

The town of Mandu is a small one with a main road running across and a square with numerous shops around it. The prominent structure in the middle of the square is Jami Masjid, which was built in mid 15^th century. The mosque which is modeled on the great mosque in Damascus was started by Hoshang Shah Gori and completed by Mahmud Khalji. The magnificent structure has beautiful carvings, painted enamels, domes, arched pillars and a large courtyard. Adjacent to the mosque lies the marble edifice with the tomb of Hoshang Shah built in Afghan style architecture with lattice works, domes and arches, but devoid of carvings. The ruins of Ashrafi mahal opposite the mosque was built as a madrasa, a school of Islamic learning during early 15^th century by Hoshang Shah. A fleet of steps that lead up to the entrance foyer is what mostly remains now apart from the arched corridors on the ground floor. It also had a victory tower which was built to commemorate the victory of Mahmud Khalji, but very little of that remains at present. Ashrafi mahal also houses the tomb of Mahmud Khalji.

Entrance gate of Jami Masjid

Jami Masjid

Hoshang Shah's tomb

Ashrafi mahal

The most stunning structure in Mandu is Jahaz Mahal (Ship Palace), which is a part of Royal enclave. Flanked by two large ponds, Kapur Talao and Munja Talo on either side, Jahaz Mahal looks like a ship at sea. The sprawling garden adjacent to Jahaz Mahal further accentuates the charm of the place. The best time to visit this place is early in the morning when the structure is bathed in the glowing morning sun and looks gorgeous. It was built in the 15^th century by Ghiyas-ud-din-Khalji as a large palace. Jahaz mahal which is made from red stone has numerous pavilions, domes, arched entrances, and a nicely designed pool. The lower floor of the double storeyed structure has numerous arched pillars and long walkways. History also states that the mahal once hosted the Mughal king, Shah Jahan and the whole palace was lit up to welcome him. Adjacent to the Jahaz Mahal is Hindola mahal (Swinging palace), an audience hall adorned with beautiful arches, latticed windows and slopping side walls. Behind this is Champa Baoli, most of which are in shambles. Champa Baoli has numerous hamams, underground rooms, large arenas and much more. Beyond these lies Jal Mahal on Munja Talao. The ramps that lead into the tank are a major attraction here. The dilapidated structure has very little left of it at present.  Taveli Mahal has been converted into a museum with a nice display of carvings and sculptures collected from across Mandu. In one corner of the Royal enclave lies the ruins of Gada Shah’s palace, most of which have been lost over time. Gada Shah was a 16^th century chieftain whose shop is another intimidating but dilapidated structure which stands just outside the royal enclave. Though more than half of the structure has fallen, whatever remains look grand. Adjoining this is Ujala Baodi, a stepped well with a chatri. 

Jahaz mahal

Kapur Talao

Hindola mahal

Hindola mahal

Champa Baoli

Jal mahal on Munja Talao

Jal mahal

Gada Shah's palace

Gada Shah's shop

Gada Shah's shop

Ujala Baodi

Mandu seems like a town that has been stuck in the 16th century. A languorous stroll through Mandu's lanes reveal its history which is dipped in architecture and romantic stories. One can easily visit all these places over two or three days at a slow pace.

How to reach Mandu:

Mandu is located in Madhya Pradesh, 88 Kms from Indore. The nearest airport and major railhead are in Indore. There are regular buses plying from Indore and Bhopal to Mandu. It is recommended to hire a taxi to reach Mandu from Indore or Bhopal.

Food and Accommodation in Mandu:

There are restaurants across Mandu, most of which serve vegetarian cuisine. Mandu has numerous hotels which are in the mid range category. 

Fields of Gold!

Basar, Arunachal Pradesh. November 2018.

Greenscape!

It was mid noon as I strolled through a nondescript village in Basar, Arunachal Pradesh. When the rising mist slowly revealed the gorgeous green hills, I was encapsulated by one of the prettiest landscapes I had ever seen. The golden paddy fields and the lush green canopy in the foreground further accentuated the charm of the surreal landscape.

Maheshwar: Fort, Temples and Carvings by the Narmada

Walking down a narrow lane, past small shrines, I was awestruck when I suddenly found myself in front of the magnificent edifice that stood facing the Narmada. While people around me happily posed and took photographs, all that I wanted to do was admire the magnificent outer façade of Ahilya fort. A peep through one of the arched windows of the fort revealed that life in Maheshwar revolves around the fort. While Narmada flowed languidly along the ghats, the local hawkers, priests, boatmen and guides were seen hustling around with their daily chores in and around the fort.

Overlooking the Narmada, the Ahilya fort was built in mid 18^th century by Holkars, who were a part of the Maratha empire and also the rulers of Indore. The fort is named after Ahilyabai Holkar, the Maratha queen who was responsible for the development of Indore and Masheshwar. A person with great administration and diplomatic skills, Ahilyabai made Maheshwar her capital and the royal residence was built inside the fort. Apart from the fort, Maheshwar is also known for a few popular temples which are located within the fort.

A flight of steps from the Narmada ghats lead to the beautiful Ahilya fort, which has a bevy of arched windows, carved entrance door and intricate works. The fort walls stretch themselves on either side of the main entrance beyond the bastions.  Inside the fort, the biggest attractions are its two temples and the cloister that offers lovely views of the ghats and the river.

Akhileshwar temple dedicated to Shiva has a sandstone base and is at a height. The arches and dome have been exquisitely carved. The carvings of elephants and Maratha warriors on the outer façade of the base are absolutely magnificent. Opposite Akhileshwar temple steps lead up to Ahilyabai temple which is adorned with engraved pillars and sculpted mythological figurines.  The temple offers nice views of the serene Narmada.

Further up from the temples, a narrow road leads to REHWA society that works with the local weavers of Maheshwar. Maheshwari hand-loom sarees which are made here are quite popular for its fabric and reversible border.

The palace of Ahilybai Holkar is referred as Rajwada and is located ahead of the temples. While a portion of this has been converted into a hotel, the other half is open to public. Lined with wooden pillars, this is where the queen lived and ruled. Presently it represents a museum with stories, history and collectibles of the royal family. Outside the palace is a huge statue of the queen, Ahilyabai Holkar.

From the ghats, one can take a boat ride along the Narmada to soak in the serenity of the surroundings and for a panoramic view of the Ahilya fort.

Travel Tips:

• The fort is open from 7 AM TO 7 PM everyday.
• Avoid weekends if you would like to take photographs devoid of crowds.

How to reach Maheshwar:

Maheshwar is 95 Kms from Indore, which has the nearest airport and major rail head. There are buses and taxis that ply between Indore and Maheshwar.  Indore is well connected to other major cities across the country.

Food and Accommodation in Maheshwar:

There are a few cafes and restaurants in Maheshwar, apart from small eateries. The town also has many hotels and a couple of resorts which cater to all type of budgets.

Bread Seller!

A frame from one of the alleys in Bhopal, Madhya Pradesh.

October 2018.

A Day in Bhopal: Places to Visit

A languorous walk through Bhopal’s busy lanes, an evening stroll along its lakes, a gaze at its minarets and a peek at its structures reveal a lot about the city’s history and heritage. Stories of the city meander its way around kings, begums, dilapidated structures, Mughal rule and water bodies from the 11^th century. Bhopal might at the first impression seem like any other bustling Indian city with chaos, traffic snarls and narrow lanes. However, the city slowly reveals its historical stories as you stroll around.

Located in central India, the capital of Madhya Pradesh state, Bhopal is mostly seen as a place to stay for a day or two for tourists visiting Sanchi, Bhimbetka and Udayagiri Caves.  Often referred as the 'City of Lakes', Bhopal is believed to have been founded by the king, Parmara Raja Bhoj in 11^th century. It was taken over in the mid 16^th century by the Mughals and was ruled by Gonds, the local chieftains. Later when the British spread their wings in the 19^th century, Bhopal became a princely state and was ruled by four Begums, the Muslim rulers of Bhopal until mid 20^th century. Bhopal cornered all world attention when in 1984 it faced one of the deadliest industrial disasters which led to the death of almost 4000 people.

Old Bhopal is known for its mosques, alleys, markets etc. which is located to the north upper lake, while new Bhopal with all its modernity is located to the south of the lake. Bhopal does not offer a lot to its visitors and most of its places of interest can be covered in a day.

Here are a few prominent places to visit in Bhopal if you have a day to spare.

Mughal and Persian influence is quite evident across the city which has numerous old structures with arches and domes. Built in 1860 CE by Sikander Jeahn Begum, one of the four Begums of Bhopal, Moti masjid which is also referred as Pearl masjid stands tall with its flight of steps and lovely arches. Though most of the structure and tall minarets are made of red bricks, the main structure and prayer hall are made of marble.

With a pink facade, Taj-ul-Masjid looks strikingly similar to the Jama masjid in New Delhi. Taj-ul-masjid, which translates to ‘The Crown of Mosques’ can accommodate up to 175,000 people making it the largest mosque in India and the second largest in Asia. The construction of the mosque was started by Shah Jehan Begum in 1877 CE. However, it was stalled due to lack of funds, but construction resumed in 1971. The mosque has three large domes in white marble and two tall minarets. The large entrance doors have arches and the flooring is made of marble. The main hallway is adorned with arches and pillars that have exquisite ornate designs and carvings. The premise also has a spacious courtyard.

Bhopal is often referred as the City of Lakes, and this is because of the numerous water bodies that are present across the city. The Upper lake is the most prominent one and the city revolves around it. Known as Bhoj Tal or Bada Talab, the lake is named after Parmara Raja Bhoj and is the largest manmade lake in India. Boating facilities, numerous cafes and sunset view makes the place an ideal one for an evening stroll. There is also a lower lake close to the upper lake which is separated by a bund and a bridge. Museum of Mankind is located near the upper lake and showcases the rich tribal culture and art of the country. Van Vihar national park which is an open zoological park is another attraction near the upper lake.

The city has a couple of very interesting old markets known for its alleyways and vibrancy. Sarafa market and Chowk bazaar remind you of the old souqs that prevailed in Persia. From fabrics to jewellery to biscuits, these markets sell myriad items. Zari work which is a type of embroidery work on sarees and purses is popular here. For those who would love to shop in Bhopal, these are the markets to head to. The markets also have nice restaurants that serve local cuisine.

Bhopal was once home to some magnificent structures and palaces which were mostly built during the 19^th century by the British and the local rulers. Sadar Manzil, Gohar Mahal and Shaukat Mahal are some of those prominent structures. A couple of them like Sadar Manzil have been turned into government offices. Gohar mahal facing the upper lake has an interesting Hindu- Muslim architecture.

Travel Tips:

• Visit the mosques in the morning and head to upper lake in the evening. The evenings are pleasant around the lake.
• Museum of Mankind closes by 5 PM and remains shut on Mondays.
• The chowk and bazaars remain mostly shut on Sundays.

How to reach Bhopal:

Bhopal is well connected to other cities of India by flights, rail and roads. It is recommended to hire a taxi to cover places within the city.

Food and Accommodation:

Though the cusine is mostly Mughlai, Bhopal is well known for its jalebis and poha. Raja tea stall has excellent poha, which is a must try. Risalas, a chicken preparation by Bohra Muslims is a popular dish that one can explore in Bhopal. There are many eateries in the markets which serve the local delicacies.

Bhopal has numerous hotels catering a wide range of budgets. I stayed at Sonali Regency  in Peer Gate area, and it is a good option.